Tag Archives: 1930s

For free and for bad weather

I have had this project finished for already a couple of months. But  somehow  all of a sudden it got warmer and warmer, too warm for it. Although I have to admit, at some point in between I might simply have forgotten that I still had and wanted to photograph it.

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But I’ll start at the beginning. On a visit to one of my favourite charity shop, it must have been two years ago at least, I checked the few items in the “for free”-box in front of the shop. And what I found was a brown midi-skirt made from pure new wool, size 38.
I don’t know about you but to me it screamed 30s the moment I saw it
Size 38 equals international size S, which mostly is a little large for me. Additionally, this skirt was a 1990s-skirt to wear on the hips, not at the waist. Doesn’t sound like much work to do, but obviously already too much as it lay on my to-do-pile until this winter. But a few months ago I finally tackled the task. I removed the waistband, re-shaped the darts and side seams to fit the skirt at the waist (not the centre back seam as I didn’t want to touch the invisible zip), re-attached the lining and the waistband and I was done. Well nearly, as obviously I had measured badly and it was too tight. So I removed the waistband again and re-sewed it while stretching the skirt as much as I could. The few centimetres I won were enough to make it wearable.

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After having worn it one day I topstitched the button-band in the centre front (yes, you don’t need it and still it was perfectly functioning, but tended to gap whilst sitting) and closed the walking slit in the back just until it ended appr. 20cm above the hem.
Now I have a perfect, beautiful and beloved pure wool skirt in a 30s style without paying a bit. And I am happy about the return of April weather for finally getting to wear it (yesterday was beautiful and sunny, but today it is cold and heavily raining).

This is how I found it
This is how I found it

Auf Deutsch:
Dieses Projekt hängt schon seit geraumer Weile in meinem Kleiderschrank, aber irgendwie war auf einmal schon Frühling und das Wetter zu warm für so eine Jupe (Disclaimer: Ich lebe in der Schweiz, ich schreibe nach Schweizer Rechtschreibung, ich benutze Schweizer Worte. Eine Jupe ist ein Rock 😉 ). Zwischenzeitlich mag ich sie aber auch einfach vergessen haben.
Von Anfang an: Es muss vor etwa zwei Jahren gewesen sein, da fand ich in der Gratis-Kiste vor einem meiner liebsten Trödelläden eine Jupe, Midi-Länge, makellos, Grösse 38, reine Schurwolle.

Nun, 38 ist mir etwas zu gross, dazu war es eine dieser 90er-Jahre-Jupes, welche man auf der Hüfte tragen soll und eben nicht wie eine aus den 30er Jahren in der Taille. Nun ja, klingt trotzdem nicht nach viel Arbeit, verschwand aber erst einmal eine ganze Weile im Projekte-Stapel. Nun, wie gesagt, vor einen Monaten befasste ich mich dann einmal eingehender mit dem Projekt. Bund abgetrennt, Abnäher und Seitennähte neu geformt (nur nicht die hintere Mitte, den nahtverdeckten Reissverschluss wollte ich schön in Ruhe lassen) so dass sie schön in der Taille sitzt, Futter wieder darübergeheftet und den Bund wieder angenäht. Hatte mich leider zu früh gefreut weil ich meine Taille dann doch etwas überschätzt hatte und die Jupe partout nicht mehr zu bekam. Also noch einmal den Bund abgetrennt und so stark gedehnt wie nur irgend möglich wieder angesetzt. Die gewonnenen Zentimeter reichten zum Glück aus.

top: fogal – skirt: bardehle, altered – belt: my mum’s – shoes: flea market

Nachdem ich sie einen Tag im Büro getragen hatte, habe ich dann noch die Knopfleiste abgesteppt (ja, man braucht sie nicht, aber sie war voll funktionsfähig) und den Schlitz hinten bis auf 20cm geschlossen.
Damit habe ich nun eine sehr schicke, heiss geliebte Wolljupe die aussieht wie aus den 30ern importiert ohne auch nur einen Rappen dafür zu bezahlen. Und damit macht die Pause vom Sommer draussen endlich einmal Sinn, weil ich euch noch vor dem Herbst Fotos zeigen kann (nachdem es gestern noch sommerlich warm war freuen wir uns hier heute über 11°C und Regen).

See you soon, bis bald

ette

Orange is the new white

Last weekend on the flea market I bought a small magazine, “Mode & Roman,” issue from Juli 25 1936, a French women’s magazine with some pages of fashion drawings, inspiration how to decorate your home, fun advertisements and reader’s letters, the biggest part of the pages ist occupied by a love story. I didn’t read it yet, but oftentimes these short stories aren’t better than the cheap novel-booklets you can still buy today. Anyway, they can be quite cute so I maybe will give it a try, shouldn’t be too hard to understand even in French.

Well. also included are two knitting patterns, one for a baby onesie and one for a women’s blouse in…oh wonder! a small size. Normally I have difficulties finding my size in pattern magazines and can directly search for teenage girl designs (which are mostly pretty boring).
This pattern is for a french Size 38, which, if it hasn’t changed the last 80 years, is a European size 36, which is, more or less, my size (there are a couple of brands where even 34 is too large for me and in Burda patterns I cut 34 as well, but mostly 36 works fine with a few alterations).
As with many knitting patterns, this one came with a pattern scheme, meant to be enlarged and serving as a guide to check the size while knitting.

If you have read my blog for a while you know my Achilles heel: I can’t knit. But a few months ago I had bought a leftover of a beautiful pure wool knit fabric. Initially I had planned to turn it into a pencil skirt, but I somehow I was afraid that it could become baggy after a short time or wouldn’t look as elegant as I’d like it to be, so I didn’t touch it.

Well, now I had a 30ies cardigan knitting tutorial, a pattern for it and some wool knit fabric and I thought: Couldn’t it be possible to make such a cardigan from knit fabric instead of knitting it? Modern ones are often sewn as well or are machine knitted and very fine, not unlike the fabric I had. I decided to give it a try, enlarged the pattern and cut my fabric. Because marking the fabric was impossible I just cut it with a narrow seam allowance. This proved to be a massive fault in hindsight. After I had joined the pieces it looked it fact good but was so small! I undid the seams and shifted them as close to the edge as I possibly could, gaining not more than 2cm circumference in total.
The tutorial in the magazine describes the cardigan as white with navy blue buttons and decoration. I likes this colour scheme and stuck with it, adding it to my bright orange fabric.
I used white cotton ribbon as facing on the front edges, the same ribbon combined with a length of blue ribbon became the belt. I had found a beautiful white and blue buckle in my stash to go with it.

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It took me quite some time deciding whether to add the collar or not. First I wanted to make a  navy blue collar but the I tried toying around with some antique white collars I had. Somehow it looked so girly and cute and not convincing at all, so I just finished and turned in the edges. If I want I could still add it.

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I found matching fabric covered buttons in my stash, with the ones I wanted came some smaller ones as well. As I already own a short-sleeved orange pullover I didn’t need a plain orange cardigan, so I combined the additional buttons with some mother-of-pearl-beads and arranged them around the neckline.

It still sits pretty tight and I fear it could gape when wearing it, but after all I really like it. I am a little mad with myself that I didn’t think of the ease and that knit fabric has less ease than hand knitting, I nearly ruined this lovely fabric and it was not that cheap, too.
But the final result: It works: It is possible to turn a knitting pattern scheme  into a sewing pattern for knits. Just check the size and the ease!!!

I scanned the pattern, in case anybody of you can use a french knitting tutorial.

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parvasedapta.ch_1936 Cardigan II

Auf Deutsch

Letztes Wochenende fand ich auf dem Trödelmarkt eine dünne Zeitschrift, “Mode & Roman” (Ausgabe vom 25- Juli 1936), ein französisches Frauenblättchen mit einer Handvoll Modezeichnungen, etwas Wohnungsdeko, die üblichen Werbeanzeigen und schlauen Briefe, den allergrössten Teil macht dann jedoch der im Titel angedrohte Roman aus. Noch hab ich ihn nicht gelesen, aber oft bewegen sich diese Erzählungen auf dem Niveau der Heftchen, die man auch heute noch am Kiosk kaufen kann. Manchmal sind diese alten Geschichten ganz niedlich und so schwer kann so etwas selbst auf französisch nicht sein, vielleicht setz ich mich mal dran und lass mich auf die Liebes-Schnulze ein.

Ebenfalls enthalten sind zwei Strickmuster, eines für einen Baby-Overall und eine Damenbluse in…sag bloss! einer kleinen Grösse. Normalerweise habe ich in den alten Heften immer Schwierigkeiten etwas passendes zu finden und nicht selten lande ich dann bei den Backfisch-Modellen (die dann soooo bieder sind). Dieser Schnitt aber ist in einer französischen Grösse 38, wenn sich da in den letzten 80 Jahren nichts geändert hat, ist das eine europäische 36, was wiederum mehr oder weniger meine Grösse ist (es gibt durchaus Marken, da ist mir selbst 34 zu gross und Burdaschnitte schneide ich auch in 34 zu, aber 36 klappt meist ganz gut, vielleicht mit ein paar Änderungen).
Wie das häufig bei Strickanleitungen der Fall ist war bei dieser ein Schema dabei, um die endgültigen Masse beim Stricken überprüfen zu können.

Nun, treue Leser wissen um meine Achillesferse: ich kann nicht stricken. Aber vor einigen Monaten hatte ich in der Restekiste wunderschönen Strick aus reiner Wolle gefunden. Eigentlich sollte er ein Bleistiftrock werden, aber ich hatte doch zu viel Angst, dass der Stoff beulen könnte oder es einfach komisch aussähe, weshalb er immer noch unberührt im Schrank lag.

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Nun, ich hatte also eine 30er-Jahre Strickanleitung, ein Schnittschema und Wollstrick und dachte: Kann man das Schnittmuster nicht einfach mit dem Strickstoff nähen anstelle es zu stricken? Moderne Cardigans sind ja auch ganz fein gestrickt, teilweise sogar dünner als mein Wollstoff. Ich beschloss es drauf ankommen zu lassen, zeichnete den Schnitt ab und zerschnitt den schönen Stoff.
Da Kreide und ähnliches nicht haften wollte schnitt ich einfach mit einem schmalen Abstand um die Schnittteile – das war DER Fehler im ganzen Projekt. Nach dem Zusammennähen musste ich feststellen dass es toll aussah, aber viel zu klein war. Ich porkelte die Nähte mühsam auseinander und nähte ein zweites Mal so nah am Rand wie möglich, viel Arbeite für am Ende nur 2cm mehr Durchmesser.

In der Zeitschrift wird die Jacke aus weisser Wolle mit blauen Knöpfen und Dekoration gemacht. Die Farben gefielen mir und ich behielt sie zusätzlich zum Orange des Stoffs bei. Die Innenseite der Knopfleiste verstärkte ich mit weissem Baumwollband, dasselbe verwandelte sich unter Hinzunahme von etwas blauem in einen Gürtel, eine alte Schnalle aus meinem Vorrat bekrönte das Gürtelvorhaben.

Dann habe ich eine Weile gebrütet, ob ich einen Kragen will oder nicht. Zunächst fand ich einen blauen Kragen eine hübsche Idee aber als ich ein paar meiner alten weissen Kragen anprobierte gefiel mir alles nicht, zu verspielt, zu niedlich, überzeugte nicht. Also klappte ich die Kanten um und der Halsausschnitt blieb nackig, einen der losen weissen Kragen könnte ich später immer noch dazu anziehen.

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Ebenfalls im Vorrat fand ich dunkelblaue Stoffknöpfe, welche es ebenfalls in einer kleineren Variante gab. Da ich schon einen orangen Kurzarm-Pullover habe und demnach keinen schlichten Kurzarmcardigan vergass ich alle Zurückhaltung, warf zu den kleinen Knöpfen noch ein paar Perlmutt-Perlen und nähte alles auf die Vorderseite.

Es ist immer noch sehr eng und ich habe ein wenig Sorge dass die Knöpfe aufspannen, trotzdem mag ich das Resultat sehr gerne. Ich ärgere mich sehr über mich selbst, dass ich an den Dehnungsfaktor nicht früher gedacht habe, so hätte ich den (übrigens gar nicht so günstigen) Stoff fast ruiniert.

Aber unter’m Strich: Es funktioniert! Man kann so ein Strickschema durchaus mit Strickstoffen nachnähen, vergesst einfach nicht Bewegungszugaben und Dehnfaktoren!

Falls jemand mit französischen Strickanleitungen arbeiten kann, habe ich die Anleitung gross genug zum nachlesen eingescannt.

Bis bald, love

ette

…we advise you to keep your seatbelts fastened at all times…

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What did she say? …I’ll sew comfortable dresses with 1/2-sleeves and not too much waist, she said. And what did she do? Fell in love with a 30ies-dress-pattern that does fulfil neither the one nor the other premise. I guess that’s how it goes, don’t you think 😉

Before you ask: I am fine. Yes, chemotherapy is crap and the first days afterwards are not really pleasant, but after this I feel better and it takes me one week to get back to normal, I even go to work the week after this (therapy is every other week, so I always have two weeks to recover). And next Monday I’ll have my final therapy already, I am so happy that it was discovered early enough so it can be treated with such a short therapy. Keep your fingers crossed that the CT scan will show no more cancer cells at the end of this month.
Sorry I kept you waiting for so long, the days I felt good have been pretty busy. When I am not working friends and family want to drop by to see how I feel or I myself want to spend the days somewhere outside instead of blogging. I can’t tell you how frequently I will post in the future, we’ll see 😉

Now, let’s talk about sewing. Shortly after I had finished the 20ies dress from my last post I fell in love with a dress I found in a “Vobachs Familienhilfe”-magazine from 1935 (the left one).

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As a fabric I chose a cotton-mix with a little stretch that had been in my stash for a very long time, I can’t even tell you when or where I bought it. It was not quite enough, that’s why the dress is a little on the short side for 1935.

I had to alter the dress a little because the pattern size was too large.  But apart from this everything went pretty straightforward. Despite the suit look, it actually is a dress, underneath the belt the seam that attaches the skirt to the bodice is hidden.

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When I was nearly done I had to realize that not a single button I owned fit the colour of the fabric, neither did the bakelite belt buckle I had planned to use. So this was to become one of the very few projects I actually took to the haberdashery shop to search for Buttons. And I found them, although they were amongst the most expensive buttons I ever bought. In the same shop I found this perfectly matching 50ies belt buckle. Now the fun part of it? I had no motivation at all to sew buttonholes, so not a single one of the buttons actually serves its purpose. Both, the four on the side and the two in the back, cover press fasteners, the two on the shoulders do nothing at all but to look beautiful.

On the technical drawing you can see the construction: sleeves and yoke are cut in one piece, but you have a seam on the top of the sleeve. The seam between the front part and the yoke is covered with this little flounce that serves as a facing as well and goes completely round the neckline.

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In the same magazine was the pattern for a small hat. Because I had a red fabric that matched the stripes of the main fabric very well I dipped my toes into milinery. Well, sort of, in fact it is just a cap, no buckram or wire included, so in fact I just sewed it like everything else. Somehow it looks better in the drawing than in real life, I can’t help but feel like a stewardess.

And now? I need red and white shoes, definitely!

Auf Deutsch

Wie war das? …Ich plane gemütliche Kleider mit halbem Arm und wenig Taille…sagte sie. Und dann? Verliebte sie sich unsterblich in einen Kleiderschnitt aus dem 30ern der weder die eine noch die andere Voraussetzung erfüllt. Ich glaube das ist normal, oder;-)

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Bevor jemand fragt: Es geht mir gut. Ja, Chemo ist Mist und die Tage danach nicht gerade angenehm. Aber danach geht es aufwärts, nach etwa einer Woche geht es mir fast wie sonst auch, die Woche danach kann ich sogar normal arbeiten (ich bekomme die Therapie im Zwei-Wochen-Rhythmus, habe also immer zwei Wochen um mich vor der nächsten zu erholen). Nächsten Montag werde ich schon meine letzte Therapiesitzung haben. Ich bin wirklich froh, dass es so früh entdeckt wurde und man es dadurch mit einer doch relativ kurzen Therapie behandeln kann. Drückt mir die Daumen dass das CT am Ende des Monats dann keine bösen Zellen mehr zeigt.
Es tut mir leid, dass ich euch so lange habe warten lassen, die Tage an denen es mir gut geht sind recht voll. Wenn ich nicht arbeite wollen Familie und Freunde sehen, dass es mir gut geht und falls nicht fällt mir meist irgendetwas ein, was ich bei dem Wetter draussen machen will. Mal sehen wie es in Zukunft mit dem regelmässig bloggen klappen wird 😉

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Nun, kommen wir zum Nähen. Kurz nachdem ich euch hier das 20er-Jahre-Kleid vorgestellt hatte verliebte ich mich in ein Kleid aus „Vobachs Familienhilfe“ von 1935 (in der Zeichnung links).
Schnell wählte ich dazu eine Baumwoll-Mischung mit wenig Stretch, die schon so lange in meinem Vorrat liegt, dass ich weder sagen kann woher noch wann ich sie gekauft habe. Leider war es recht wenig, weshalb das Kleid für 1935 wohl als skandalös kurz gelten darf.

Den Schnitt musste ich ein wenig ändern, da das Schnittmuster mir zu gross war, das ging aber alles recht gut. Auch wenn es wie ein Zweiteiler wirkt, es ist wirklich ein Kleid. Der Rock wird dort an das Oberteil genäht, wo der Gürtel sitzt, so ist die Naht versteckt.

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Als ich fast fertig war musste ich feststellen, dass meine doch reiche Knopfsammlung keinen einzigen Knopf enthielt, welcher zu diesem Projekt passte, ebenso musste ich lernen, dass die geplante Gürtelschnalle zu dunkel war. Damit wurde dies zu einem der ganz wenigen Projekte, mit welchem ich in ein Kurzwarengeschäft marschierte und Knöpfe aussuchte. Nebenbei bemerkt habe ich wohl noch nie so viel Geld für Knöpfe ausgegeben, allerdings fand ich im selben Laden eine farblich perfekte Gürtelschnalle (nur farblich, zeitlich aber wohl 50er, aber was soll’s), das versöhnt mich. Und das lustige? Ich hatte keine Lust auf Knopflöcher, weshalb sowohl die Knöpfe im Nacken als auch die an der Seite lediglich Druckknöpfe verdecken. Die an den Schultern waren von vornherein als Deko konzipiert.

Die technische Zeichnung zeigt die Konstruktion ganz schön, Ärmel und Passe sind wie Raglanärmel aus einem Stück, allerdings gebogen und daher mit Naht auf dem Arm. Die Naht zwischen Vorderteil und Passe wird durch einen Volant abgedeckt, an diesen angeschnitten der Halsbeleg, welcher sich bis zum Verschluss im Nacken rumzieht.

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Im selben Heft fand sich ein Hut-Schnittmuster. Und da ich noch etwas roten Stoff hatte, versuchte ich mein Glück als Hutmacherin. Naja, auch nicht ganz. Da weder Steifleinen noch Draht noch sonstwas involviert waren, war es doch nur ein Nähprojekt wie jedes anderes. Irgendwie gefällt es mir auf der Zeichnung besser, meine Variante lässt mich doch stark an eine Stewardess denken.

Und jetzt? Brauch ich rot-weisse Schuhe!

Bis bald, love

ette

Black and Blue remodeled

When my father visited me back in october, he asked if we could visit the local antiques shop together. I hadn’t been there for months or even more than a year because the last visits there had been quite unsuccessful and it was quite far from our old flat. Now, from our new home it is less than ten minutes by foot.

And whilst my father didn’t find anything this time, I found something, to be exact two things. The better preserved one I am showing you today, when the second one will be ready to be presented I don’t know, could take some time, so you need to be patient.

This dress hung on a coat rack next to a 60ies ladies suit that didn’t appeal to me at all. But this one did. I would date it around 1940. It has been reworked, it seems as if someone re-used the black silk from an older garment, some seams are oddly placed and you still find remnants of previous ones. The skirt as well as the front part is made from black silk satin, the upper part of the bodice and the sleeves are made from blue silk satin, overlaid with black lace. Small parts like the collar and the cuffs are worked in black silk crêpe.

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There is no label to be found and judging from the seams and the fact that an older garment was re-used I assume that this dress was homesewn. The front and the belt as well as the cuffs close with press buttons.

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Unfortunately the silk crêpe of the collar has discoloured, maybe caused by light. I plan to hand-wash it with ivy leaves, which can not only be used as a mild detergent, but also helps dark colours to refresh (that’s why you shouldn’t wash light colours with it, it doesn’t only refresh, it obviously kind of dyes), I hope this will help a little.

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Only on the way home I realized it had a large tear on the right side of the skirt, beforehand I had thought it was, apart from the collar, in wearable condition. To fix this I arranged a scrap of silk-organza on my embroidery hoop, pinned the tear onto it and darned it with silk thread, which I had splitted in three very thin strands beforehand.

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Please note, this is very important for me: I am not a conservator, I have never learnt how to conserve and repair old and antique textiles. This is NOT how you should conserve an antique dress, the main premise of museums today is that a manipulation should be reversible. The darning above surely doesn’t accord to any museum practice. I bought this dress and planned to wear it, that’s why I did what I did, not to make anything according to museum standard!

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Here you see the outside and the inside of the top part.

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A close-up of the skirt. You see the traces of the old seams and that the hem used to be folded on a slightly different position. Below some thread remnants I removed from the old seams. The brown parts are the ones that were exposed to light, the black parts stuck in the fabric, this is what light does to textiles!

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I really managed to take not a single photo were the tear is really visible. You can maybe make it out in the one below, it sits at half height.

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Unfortunately the sleeves are a bit on the small side, I really have to keep my shoulders pulled up to wear them as long as this. If I should ever really wear it (I maybe won’t dare at all, it is quite delicate), I will maybe try to roll them up on the inside and wear them as 3/4-sleeves, so I won’t have to change them.

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dress: antique shop – shoes: Bally/flea market

Side note: The shoes look pretty authentic, but date in fact from the 1970ies. I know for sure because the seller had bought them for herself back then. It was the Bonnie&Clyde-Great Gatsby-mania and the revival of 30ies-fashion that made shoes like this so very popular and close to the original 30ies ones. I own another very similar pair from the 70ies and they are not only very comfortable, but it is also a relief to know that they are not that old and delicate as they look. Oh, and they are cheaper, too 😉

See you soon, love

ette

Charity shops can be quite expensive if you aren’t wary Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut

German version below!

Somehow I always miss to post what I found on flea markets. Either I don’t make it to write a post in time or I think it isn’t that interesting to show it here. But now after a “few” months’ break, another “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut!“-Post, hosted as each month on Beswingtes Fräulein’s blog “Beswingtes Allerlei“.

The past few weeks have been different and somewhat insecure. After having additionally worked in the museum until September it was hard to adapt to the one salary I earn at the bookshop again and until two weeks ago it wasn’t clear if I could raise my pensum there (luckily I can!). So this month’s motto should have been: Saving. And really, I cooked more often so much I was able to eat leftovers at work instead of buying something for lunch, I reduced my consumption of take-away coffees to as good as none (I think I bought two, one was sponsored by my boyfriend)and I said to myself not to go shopping anymore unless I really needed something. Excluded from this were flea markets and used items, though I think I didn’t visit a single flea market the whole month, don’t have to tempt myself unneccessarily 😉

Well, I am far from being perfect and so I have to admit that this is also the month I bought the most shoes since…well, very long. Five pairs, to be honest, three of them new. Yes, shame on me (but they are so beautiful and were so reasonably priced….oh).

I don’t even know why I begged my boyfriend to stop at this charity shop. I felt I just needed a little shopping feeling and though this would be less dangerous than going elsewhere. Because he really hates this particular shop he only accompanied me a few minutes and left then to wait in the car. Baaaad decision. Right after he had left I picked up a pair of black leather boots for half the price (he wouldn’t let me buy shoes, he hates how many I already own) and then to make things worse I found this amongst the antique books:

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And yes, I bought it. With 40 CHF it was quite expensive, but I still think it was a good buy.

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A very big book “Lehrkurs der Selbstschneiderei” (training course to home sewing), a smaller appendix with patterns for knitting and crocheting and even a postcard to order other books from this publisher as well as a pay-in slip.

The appendix is not overly interesting to photograph:

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But the book itself! It has no date given, but judging from the illustrations and photos it should date from the 1930ies.

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And it covers really everything remotely connected with textiles. Dying and weaving…

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..different kinds of stitches and embroidery (yes, in full colour!)…

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…how to decorate and finish seams and hems…

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…knitting and crocheting for children and grown-ups…

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…photos of beautiful finished projects…

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…different collars and even hat decorations and alterations…

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…ideas on how to alter a basic pattern to give it a new look…

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…and last but not least some fashion illustrations…

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I really hope to use it in the future, though I have to admit I tend to forget these kinds of things when working with patterns and just do as I am told or as I already know. But I really would like to try some of these ideas and at least I paid so much for it, would be a shame if I wouldn’t use it.

Auf Deutsch

Nachdem ich meist entweder das Datum verschlafe und nicht rechtzeitig fertig werde oder ich die erstandenen Dinge nicht für interessant genug erachte, hier nun endlich wieder ein “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut”- Beitrag von mir.
Eigentlich sollte ich diesen Monat ja sparen, aber aus welchen Gründen auch immer musste ich in diesen Trödelladen und war als ich rauskam um ein dickes Buch und ein paar Schuhe reicher, aber auch um einiges Geld ärmer. Das Buch “Lehrkurs der Selbstschneiderei” hat mich komplett mit Schachtel, beiliegendem Heft, einer alten Bestellkarte und Einzahlungsschein 40 Franken gekostet,  etwa 34€. Ein Datum lässt sich nirgends finden, aber anhand der Fotos ist es aus den 30er Jahren.  Im Heft finden sich Schnittmuster für Strick- und Häkelprojekte, im Buch selber gibt es dann weniger Schnittmuster (vor allem Basisschnitte zum vergrössern), aber umso mehr Verarbeitungstipps, Anleitungen und Ideen. Und vom Färben und Weben über Stricken, Sticken, Schleifchen machen bis hin zum kompletten Herrenhemd und sogar  Hutänderungen ist wirklich alles dabei. Zwischendrin immer wieder Fotos von Beispielobjekten, farbige Seiten und unzählige Beispiele für Krägen, Details, Verzierungen, Borten, Knopfleisten und was-weiss-ich -nicht-alles. Eine Fundgrube, wahrhaft. Dumm nur dass ich solche Bücher meist genau dann im Schrank lasse, wenn ich nähe und die Schnittmuster nach Anleitung oder Erfahrung zusammenknüppel. Ich hoffe wirklich ich bessere mich in dieser Hinsicht und setze zumindest ein paar dieser Ideen um, wär doch schade drum (um die Ideen und um das Geld 🙂 )

See you soon, love,

ette

 

 

 

not quite convincing…

As promised, here is the only project I was able to finish in the past weeks (aside from some curtains for our staircase and the bathroom).
I bought the pattern, Vogue 2859,  already quite some time ago on sale, a 30ies set, consisting of a dress, a coat and a wrap blouse. When the HSF-challenge “#3 Pink” was coming closer I decided to realize the blouse in a pink, floating fabric I once had bought for my prom dress, but not used entirely (like the black fabric I used to complain about). After I had cut the pattern and the fabric something very unexpected and  devastating happened in out family and I was neither in the mood nor had I time to sew.  So I never completed the challenge, but was very amused (well, as amused as I was able to be back then) that some other participant had had the same idea: Black tulip made the exact same pattern from a very similar fabric.

But even this wasn’t enough to get me back on track, so the pattern pieces lay cut in my stash until I decided to get rid of this project before moving, because I was already suspicious if I would really like it and feared to never finish it. So close before moving into our new apartment I was able to fool myself, prohibiting me to start something new and so, forcing me to face this project.

The pattern is quite tricky. The pattern pieces do look very unfamiliar and you really have to stay concentrated not to make any mistakes. But after you have sewn the few large parts together  it comes together comparably quick.

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A thing I did not like was the instruction to hem the ties, in my opinion you will always see the hemmed inside and never the right one, Murphy’s law. So I doubled them and turned them over instead.

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Please note that the pattern is very short, as it is to be expected from a 30ies design. It is meant to be worn with the dress underneath, so at the moment it just sits on my sewing mannequin, waiting for me to buy or make a simple black dress to go with it (a problem I face with a beautiful antique 30ies blouse I own as well, I would so love to wear it but own nothing to pair it with).

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But maybe this will never happen, because there are some other features I am not quite confident with: I don’t like that you see the seam of the scarf. My fabric is quite shiny so it is even more evident than in other versions I saw. A different fabric could help, but I am sure as long as I can see it, it will never be ok to me. If I am going to make this blouse again I will have to find an alternative to this way of sewing the scarf. But I would have to anyway, because the other thing I am not happy with, is that it sits too tight for my taste. I am very sensitive when it comes to clothing sitting close to my throat and this blouse is just too close to feel comfortable for me. So maybe it will never make its way into my wardrobe.

I am going to announce you something really exiting (at least for me) soon and it is connected with some new projects!
So see you soon, love,

ette

I spotted Hollywood

Some of you might remember my slight obsession with Bette Davis.

Well, most of the time this makes me watch her films and read books about her. But sometimes I can’t resist and buy memorabilia. My most treasured item surely is an autograph my boyfriend bought me for my birthday two years ago.

The framed autograph on my vanity table. Note the box I showed you in my last post in its natural habitat.

But there is another kind of memorabilia that I am itching for. Do you know Hollywood Patterns? The company was founded in 1932 and sold patterns connected to stars and starlets (source). Simply by putting a little photo and the name of a movie star on the envelope turned a standard pattern into a collectible (a method that applies still today, though maybe not anymore for patterns). And as you can imagine, today they are worth even more.

Bette Davis had a total of 16 patterns named after her. Every now and then they pop up on ebay or etsy. To the more or less high prices of the patterns themselves adds the postage from the US to Europe, so to buy one of these is alway quite an expensive pleasure. (Now please don’t link to any pattern you found for sale on the internet, I don’t look at the mentioned websites very often, simply because I don’t want to tempt myself to spend that much money too often ;-). If I am in the mood and the position to buy one, I will search for it.)

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Last year in late autumn I spotted a beautiful one on etsy, Hollywood 1221, published in 1934. And my boyfriend was so kind to give it to me as a christmas-present (darling, I love you!).

I already copied the pattern a few days after the holidays (because the pattern is so old I don’t want to use the original pattern pieces anymore), but it wasn’t until before our Sicily-trip I finally decided for a fabric and started cutting (this is the mentioned dress I wanted to sew for the trip but didn’t finish).

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The choice of fabric wasn’t that intelligent in hindsight. I used a white spotted green cotton print I bought a few years ago in the odds-and-ends-box of a nearby fabric store that doesn’t exist anymore. I had already planned to use it for my Fall-for-Cotton-dress, but I had too little of it (appr. 1,5m). I chose it because I thought it was close enough to the spotted fabric on the envelope drawing and could look good (but it is not really appropriate for this time, in the sewing magazines I own polka dots don’t appear earlier than late 30ies, in earlier issues I only found them to be used for children’s clothing).
For this project it was just enough, I had to cut the lower back in two pieces, otherwise it wouldn’t have fit.

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Well, the resulting dress is really…dotty. The matching of the pattern is at some seams better than at others, unfortunately where it didn’t fit was in the centre front (in contrast to the text on the linked page, it is a two-piece skirt. There is no seam in the pleat and I didn’t think of adjusting the width of it to match the dots).

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Can’t help it, but I absolutely love this photo!

The pattern asked for two zippers, on at the side and one in the centre back. I used a white nylon zipper in the neck and a light cream one in the side seam (because I had them in stock, I do know they aren’t authentic for the 30ies)  Both zipper-seams are hand-sewn as is the hem.

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I used white thread for all seams, this seemed to be a better match than green one.

The size is a straightforward 12, only thing I changed is I shortened the hem by 7cm.

Because the pattern was too weird with the stomacher in between I applied a rest of white cotton ribbon after having already finished it, now it is a lot better.

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yes, too lazy to match my nail polish

I used every bit of it. As you see, it wasn’t enough to attach it on both ends of the stomacher-part in the back as well, the rest I had was just enough to form the button-loop for a button in the neck above the zipper.

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As I said, I didn’t change anything. Like the most american patterns, the seam allowance is  included, something still unusual for me, because it makes it difficult for me to imagine how large it will be in the end (and in this case it was difficult to match the pattern as well). When looking at the result it seems as if the bodice is a little too long, when making it again I should try to shorten the stomacher-part.

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I decided to take the photos outside, because it was quite a strange light and the appartment pretty gloomy. The day had been hot and only a little later there was a huge thunderstorm. So this may explain why our camera changed the ISO to several thousands without me noticing it (don’t know why it was set in the automatic-mode) and why the white is so flashy.

Well, to end this post: I love it! It looks quite special and still I think the fabric wasn’t the best to use for this pattern and to make it suitable for everyday-use I should reduce the volume of the sleeves a little, they are a bit on the emormous side.

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(dress: Hollywood Pattern 1221/ette, shoes: Siemes Shuh Center, fragrance: Stella McCartney – Sheers)

So much for today, love

ette

chocolates and silk

It has been months since I participted at Beswingtes Fräulein’s Getrödelt gefunden gefreut.


First because the date always collides with the due date for the HSF-challenges and I didn’t manage to write two posts in such a short time, second because sometimes I can’t decide what to show you and plan too large posts in my head I never even start to write.

And since we know that we will move again in a few months, this time into a smaller flat, I suffer from a total flea-market-ban. I already have too much things to move into the new flat, it really wouldn’t be wise to buy much more (though it is so hard!).

But a few days ago when having a close look at old books and some incunable pages my favourite antiquarian bookshop had put out for me I couldn’t help dropping into a lovely antique shop just next door. The owner knows me and knows in what kind of stuff I am interested in.  When I asked him if he had something for me he said no, only a pin cushion box he would assume I am interested in. But I thought being already there I could as well have a look. Unfortunately I had to tell him that it wasn’t a pin cushion at all and the sight of the pins in the already very damaged silk really hurt. But it was so lovely I had to buy it.

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It is quite large, maybe 25cm diametre. The motif is flocked or maybe painted onto the satin, which is, as cleary visible, very fragile and damaged, much of the warp thread is disappeared. On the bottom left you can see a small signature (it is hard to decipher, I assume it says “Chembine” but I can’t find anything online)
The bottom is covered with a patterned paper I am pretty sure is not original but was added in the 2nd half of the 20th century.

The inside of the lid proved my assumption it being not a pin cushion at all, but some kind of chocolate or praline box.

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“Au Vieux Gourmet” in Nancy, a french city appr. 300km north of Berne.

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I love love love this Robe de Style motif and the cute little doll the  woman is holding in her hands. This may be the main reason I couldn’t pass on this one, even if it was quite expensive with 30 CHF (appr. 25€).

And because this was really the only thing I bought this month I thought I could show you its little brother, another chocolate box I already bought over a year ago in another antique shop only a few metres away from the other one.

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Silk, again. This one in a dark red and ruffled, topped with a tambour embroidery in silk and (fake?) gold thread, a golden lace attached to the side.

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You see, the silk is damaged, too. The seller assumed it to be a little younger than the new one above, maybe from the 1930ies. And she gave me the hint of it being a chocolate box.

The inside is a little more interesting because there is some paper lace still in place, though very torn and dirty.

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While the 20ies box looks great inside (but as I said, I assume it being changed later), this box doesn’t look as nice. Maybe this is the reason the seller asked only 10CHF for it (appr. 8€). I have to admit I never searched for these boxes, so 10CHF being cheap and 30CHF being more on the expensive side is a very subjective evaluation, I have no idea what these things cost elsewhere.

 

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And now you might ask how I use this box without completely destroying the paper lace (because I do use it, I try not to collect things I can’t use because I have neither enough room nor enough money to buy everything I like).

I use it to keep some of my jewellery. To protect the paper lace I covered the whole inside with a sheet of acid free wrapping paper. Like this nothing touches the inside and the lace and the material doesn’t harm it either (if I would use standard, acid, paper it would make the old substance brown and brittle, it would disintegrate sooner or later as you can see with old books, who sometimes just fall apart because of the acid in the paper itself)

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Though I do already have so much boxes and old tins I really love these silk covered ones and I can’t promise that I won’t buy some more if I find some.

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And I really hope the next post will be about some sewing project again. 😉

See you soon, love,

ette

 

 

 

 

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut

It’s already the 1st, that means it’s already time for another Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut-post, hosted by Beswingtes Fräulein each month on her blog Beswingtes Allerlei.

It’s not that I didn’t buy anything interesting since december (last time I participated), but in january I simply forgot it and the days around february 1st were very busy in a very very sad way. So as you can imagine,  I really wasn’t in the mood to chat about old stuff, but was relieved to be able to publish some posts I had already prepared beforehand to fill the gap of the last few weeks.
For the same reason I didn’t participate in the 3rd HSF-Challenge, which would have been “Pink”. But I will blog about my project for the 4th challenge, which ends today, soon.

But let’s talk about something moree cheerful and let me present to you two things I bought in february at the antique fair in Thun:

I don’t know about you, but I can’t remember finding Vintage lingery at an antique fair, it is just too far away from the focus of most visitors (and sellers alike). I am not much of an online shopper, so I never attempted to buy anything like this on the internet. To be honest, this ist an item I had never searched for, but when I saw it I knew I had to have it 🙂

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A 1930ies pale pink bra with mesh cups. It only has some very few stains and two little holes in the mesh, which is in fact very brittle.

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I love the parallel seams below the cups.

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In the back it closes with two mother-of-pearl-buttons on an elastic:

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The inside shows no label or anything similar.

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Though of course I wouldn’t wear it , I had hoped to create a pattern from it. Unfortunately it doesn’t fit at all, not a bit. It will be much easier to draft a pattern all by myself. But I don’t mind, I still love having it in my collection.

The second thing I want to show you is not very interesting at first glance.

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I already own too many embroidery books, the only thing that attracted me on this 1921 exemplar was its placing in a 50%-off-box and so for 4,50 CHF, I bought it.

There are in fact some nice patterns and ideas in it, so after all it was certainly a good buy.

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A big bonus was, that it still had all its original pattern sheets.

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But only in the evening I cared to take a closer look at the sheets in the back of the book. And what a surprise. There were a lot more sheets than those belonging to the book.

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Different sheets with canvas embroidery, patterns for early machine embroidery and an attachment with embroidery and crocheting patterns.
And then I saw something that really made me scream. A sewing pattern sheet:

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I know that 20ies sewing patterns exist, I have a bunch of scans on my computer from some magazines a dear friend once borrowed me, but they are comparably hard to find and often very expensive.
Now I own at least one sheet and I got it for free, considering that I was willing to pay the 4,50 CHF for the book alone.
Besides some children’s patterns there are at least three patterns for women. Unfortunately all too large for me, but resizing won’t be much of a problem, I hope.

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So much antiques for this month, see you soon, love

ette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

what’s this? 70ies! 30ies! 50ies?

I already mentioned the small antiques Shop “das Puppenhaus” in my hometown quite a few times.
In front of the actual shop the owner installed a shelf with modern, less valuable or broken things. Everything in this shelf is 1€, if you fill one of the plastic bags next to the shelf, it is 3€ total. Of course, what you find there is rarely more than rummage, but if you search for chipped plates, cheesy 70ies novels and other stuff, this is the place to go.
Obviously, you only need to be interested in a very few things to start thinking “mh, maybe I should fill a bag”. What I usually filled the gaps with was clothing, you can always use it as a fabric resource. I found a Korn-Bandshirt, a skirt that now forms part of my quilt and a hilarious 1970ies (?) nightgown.

This colour is very difficult to describe and even more difficult to photograph. It lies somewhere between “very-light-shade-of-pink” and “I-forgot-a-red-sock-in-the-white-laundry”. As you see, it is very wide, label says size 50 (though sizing has changed in the last 40 years, 50 must have been pretty large already back then). The fabric is a very light, sheer cotton with machine embroidery in the front, the back is plain.

Now, this dreadfullness has been in my stock for a rather long time, maybe around 6 years. I always planned to turn it into something wearable, adjust it to my size, make something completely different out of it, I had plenty of ideas. But then, everytime I looked at it I shook my head and put it back.

Finally I faced the monster.

First I cut away all the seams, but kept the hem and the buttonband.
The sleeves’ fabric was very worn and threadbare, I was close to throwing it away (but I didn’t, as you’ll see later). The front and back were each made from one large sheet of fabric without any darts or similar (but for the buttonband). Because the original cut had raglan sleeves, the fabric was much narrower on the top end than at the hem.

I chose a pattern for a nightgown I found in a 1937 schoolbook I bought in april 2013.

I copied the upper parts of the front and back and placed them onto my fabric as high as possible (remember, the raglan cut).  The resulting pieces I sewed together, using french seams. The sleeveless gown was much shorter than I had hoped for, but at least it was already hemmed.

What was left of the fabric were the bits cut away to form the armholes in the front, a larger piece from the back and the sleeves. I cut away all the fabric that was too worn to be used, turning the rest into more or less straight stripes. These stripes, eight in total, I patched together to two rectagles of four, having one embroidered stripe in each of it. I formed kind of a halfcircle to turn them into sleeves. The hem I decorated with a polyester lace, that is in no way less horrible than the original nightgown had been. I set the sleeves in and finished the neckline with white bias binding on the inside (it is a little stiff, I hope it gets better after having been washed a couple of times). I re-attached the ribbon (not before re-sewing it, the thread was more brittle than the fabric itself, and yes, it is off-centre, don’t tell me 😉 ) and found a button in the exact same hilarious pale shade of pink (maybe it even came from this nightgown, I can’t remember if the buttons were already missing or if I took them off).

Well yes, and now it looks like a late 1950ies babydoll-dress, though I made no alterations to the pattern at all. Well, except for the length, the sleeves and the already given buttonband and ribbon.

The Challenge: #1 Make do & Mend

Fabric: pale pink cotton with machine embroidery

Pattern: basic nightgown pattern from a schoolbook

Year: 1937

Notions: thread, polyester lace, plastic button, bias binding

How historically accurate is it? well, the pattern is an original one, the fabric is imaginable in the 1930ies. But the machine embroidery, the length and the overall impression it gives aren’t suitable for this decade at all, so let’s say 20-30%

Hours to complete: 4

First worn:  january 3, 2014

Total cost: maybe less than 1€ (3m bias binding cost 0,80€, I used less than 1m, lace surely was part of a convolute bought somewhere at a flea market, button as well. Costs for the nightgown I already explained above)

And a funny work-in-progress-photo featuring the lady of the house. I had searched for inspiration for the next challenge when I didn’t work on the nightgown (lying in the background), that’s why the magazines still lay on the sofa. Seems as if they have their own bobyguard now. She even stares like an aged librarian.

See you soon, love,

ette