Tag Archives: Bazar

A bag for the dance (Tutorial)

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It’s been a while, again. November flew by so very quickly, in December I indulged in a short pre-holidays holiday to London, visited my family in Germany and was caught by a flu shortly after. Now it is already january and I have the feeling I have done nothing the past weeks.

Well, as you can imagine, being ill at home and lying in bed with fever, I wasn’t really capable of sewing anything. So it was only very shortly before Christmas that I remembered I should search for something appropriate to post here. And while I first only searched for a cute drawing or a beautiful front page, I quickly found some small and easy to make gift ideas in “Der Bazar” from December 15 1924 and thought “why not”. After all, I didn’t manage to finish it in time, so see it as a little belated Christmas present.

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As you see, there are a lot of different ideas, today let’s talk about the two on the lower left. These are two items to take with you on a dance. The first one is a little bag and I will come to it in a second. The second one is a handkerchief. There is no pattern for it or its embroidery given, only the description of it. It really has a slit in the middle, simply for handling it, this seems to have been a novelty in 1924, at least it is described as one. I have never seen something like this, neither as a tutorial nor in real life and I really can’t think of any use for it, I mean, a hankie is not that big that you can’t handle it without a slit.

Now, the bag. It is to be made from leftovers of silk ribbon, if possible matching the colour of the dress intended to wear with it. You can embellish it with some embroidery and finish it with a little tassel.

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The easiest way to make it is: search for a ribbon approximately the width of the pattern, a narrower one for the handle and then choose lining and tassel accordingly. I went for a cotton-viscose grosgrain ribbon in oxblood red, for the handle and the bar I used a leftover of black liner tape (I am not sure if this is the right translation, but it was the only one I could find. It is a rather stiff ribbon with one reinforced edge. You sew it onto the inside of suit trousers’ hems to prevent them from being damaged by the shoes they lie on. It is not very pretty but as this project was more fun than serious reconstruction and as I had nothing else I went with it.).  To line it I used a little leftover from my 1940ies winter coat.
The tutorial says the decoration on the bag in the magazine is embroidered, but as the grosgrain is pretty dense and not fun to stitch through this wasn’t an alternative. Instead I attached two  lace flowers I made years ago when I started tatting.

Well, honestly? To me it looks like a luggage tag. And it also has the size of a luggage tag. And I can’t think of anything that could fit into it apart from a business card, even a lipstick would push it out of shape. Well, at least this explains why you need a slit in your hankie 😉

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if you fancy your own luggge tag-click to enlarge

Ja, es ist schon wieder etwas her, dass ich hier etwas geschrieben habe. Der November verging schon wie im Flug, Anfang Dezember habe ich mir dann ein paar vorweihnachtliche Tage in London gegönnt bevor ich noch ein Wochenende die Familie in Deutschland besuchte. Direkt danach fegte mich dann eine ausgewachsene Grippe zwei Wochen von den Beinen und schon war Weihnachten, ohne dass ich zu irgendetwas gekommen bin.

Nun, zwei Wochen lag ich tatsächlich mit Fieber, Erkältungssymptomen und Kreislaufproblemen im Bett, ohne dass ich auch nur daran denken wollte, etwas zu nähen. Daher war es tatsächlich schon so gut wie Weihnachten als ich anfing zu überlegen, was den ein passendes Geschenk für euch wäre. Anfangs suchte ich aufgrund der Kürze der Zeit nur nach einer netten Grafik, fand dann aber bald diese Seite mit Last-Minute-Geschenkideen in der 2. Dezember-Ausgabe des “Bazar” von 1924. Nun, wie ihr seht hat es dann doch nicht gereicht und es wird eher ein Januar-Geschenk, aber was soll’s.

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Wie ihr seht, versammelt die Seite eine  ganze Reihe Ideen, Thema heute sollen die beiden unten links sein. Beides kleine Dinge, die man zu einer Tanzveranstaltung mitnehmen soll. Das eine ist ein kleiner Beutel, zu dem ich sofort komme und das andere ist…nun ja, ein Taschentuch mit Schlitz. Es gibt keine Vorlage für die Stickerei, das Wichtigste war den Autoren offenbar das Taschentuch an sich, eine “Neuheit”, denn durch den Schlitz kann man das Taschentuch über die Finger ziehen und so festhalten. Ja…wie dem auch sei… ein wenig fühle ich mich an unnütze Erfindungen von Teleshopping-Kanälen erinnert.

Nun zum Täschchen: Laut Anleitung wird es aus Seidenband-Resten gefertigt, die zum Kleid, zu welchem es getragen wird, passen sollten. Vollendet wird es dann mit etwas Stickerei und einer Quaste.

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Close-up of the lining

Am einfachsten kommt man zu diesem Beutel, wenn man ein Seidenband in etwa der gewünschten Breite nimmt, so muss nichts verstürzt werden. Aber man kann es natürlich auch aus Stoffresten nähen. Dann braucht man noch ein schmales Band für den Henkel, Futter wenn gewünscht und was man sich so an Zierrat vorstellt. Ich habe ein Baumwoll/Viskose-Ripsband in Ochsenblut-Rot und passender Breite genommen und für den Henkel und den Riegel ein Rest Hosenstossband. Das geht sicherlich schöner, aber es sollte auch mehr ein Experiment denn ernsthaftes Taschen-Nähen sein. Als Futter diente ein Rest vom Wintermantel-Futter. Die Seitennähte mit der Hand zu schliessen (einfacher Überwendlingstich) war auf dem festen Band mühsam genug, daher wollte ich nicht noch etwas sticken. Stattdessen habe ich zwei Blumen aus Schiffchenspitze aufgenäht und die Quaste kam vor Weihnachten von einer Packung Duftteelichte (ja, nichts wegwerfen, man weiss ja nie 😉 )

Nun, was soll ich sagen? Es erinnert mich an einen Gepäckanhänger, die Grösse passt auch. Und ich kann mir wirklich kaum etwas vorstellen, was da hinein passt. Gut, es ist die Zeit, als man als Dame weder Smartphone noch Portemonnaie zum Ball bringen musste, aber da passt nicht einmal eine Puderdose rein und selbst ein Lippenstift würde unschön beulen. Also wohl ein besseres Visitenkartenetui, immerhin erklärt das, warum man sein Taschentuch über dem Finger tragen muss.

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Damit für heute genug von vergangenen Mode-Albernheiten
Enough of past fashion oddities

see you soon, alles Liebe

ette

Frills and lace and challenge #19

Third challenge in a row, I am optimistic to really meet my goal of doing half of this year’s challenges 😀

The theme for this fortnight’s challenge was “HSF Inspiration”. So basically you could do anything, as long as it had been inspired by some project previously made for the HSF. I started from the back and began looking at the old HSF-photos of 2013, so at the projects I hadn’t seen before, because I didn’t participate last year (I am not sure if you have to be a member of the group, but here is the link to the fb-albums).

What finally caught me was a little hairbow Natalie had made for the Accessorize-Challenge. I remembered that there was a whole page of victorian hairbow tutorials in one of my Bazar-issues. I had discovered them when working on my box for sewing machine supplies back in January.

After having checked what I had in stock concerning lace and ribbons I decided to try this design:

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I was able to use a leftover from a long forgotton project, a wide, mat bias binding in a pale lavender. I paired this with a matching rose satin ribbon and black bobbin lace. The tutorial had asked for black lace and velvet ribbon and green grosgrain ribbon, but neither did I have these colours nor did I want it to be that dark.

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Because my satin ribbon was so narrow I doubled it, a third bow would have crossed the line to a gift-wrapping-effect 🙂

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I roughly followed the instructions of the tutorial, but my main focus was the picture: The whole thing is based on a circle (the tutorial says half circle, I completely overlooked this), the original of buckram, mine is grey felt. A part of the rim gets covered with pleated ribbon (I cut the bias binding in half) and a layer of lace on top. Now the long piece of lace is attached, as you see it is doubled and sewn together at the straight edges. I had to iron and wrinkle the lace to make it lie flat at the end, I am sure with a tulle lace as shown in the original drawing this was much less bulky. To completely cover the felt I added a rest of the lace to the whole thing. On top of it all I placed the bow I had formed out of the two different ribbons. The lace and the ribbon might be a tiny bit shorter as the tutorial asks for, but first this is all I had left of the bias binding and second I didn’t want to make it too extravagant, so I can maybe wear it without full 1870ies attire.

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If you would like to make your own, I tried to translate the istructions for you:

To make this bow arrange a 76cm length of 6,5cm wide green grosgrain ribbon on one end into narrow box pleats of 1cm width each until you end up with 11cm of pleated ribbon. Sew this folded part of the ribbon onto a half circle cut out of buckram (3,5cm diametre), 1cm away from the outer rim.This is covered as the image shows with 5cm of pleated black lace. Now add a length of two laces that you connected at the straight edges, ruffles the last part of it so it forms a half circle. The final length of the lace should be 20cm. Additionally ad a 40cm piece of the green grosgrain ribbon, a 10 and 6cm loop of the same ribbon as well as a small loop and a folded knot of black velvet ribbon. The latter covers all ends and seams of the other loops.

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The rest of the satin ribbon I used as a loop on the bottom side to attach it to the head with bobby pins.

The Challenge: #19 HSF Inspiration

Fabric: a small circle of grey polyester felt

Pattern: tutorial without a pattern found in “Der Bazar. Illustrirte Damen=Zeitung, Nr. 21, June 3rd 1872

Year: 1872

Notions: black and lavender thread, rose satin ribbon, lavender bias binding (both synthetic fibres), black bobbin lace (maybe cotton or linen).

How historically accurate is it?  Not too much. I roughly followed the instructions, I made everything by hand and the result looks remotely like the image in the tutorial. But I used modern, artificial fibres instead of silk ribbons.

Hours to complete:  1-1,5

First worn: not worn yet.

Total cost:  Felt and bias binding were leftovers from other projects, the ribbon had been in my stock for years, I assume it cost around 0.50-0.80 €/m. The lace was bought either at a flea market or a charity shop, can’t remember when or how I bought it, I assume I found it in a sewing basket or bag of laces I bought. All in total not more than 1-2€.

Hope you like it, love

ette