Tag Archives: getrödelt gefunden gefreut

Spring in Summer – Printemps Summer Catalogue 1907

It has been months since  I participated in Beswingtes Fräulein’s “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut“, where you show your antique and flea market shopping finds on the 1st of the month. Now this month I am back on track again 🙂

What I want to show you today is nothing more than a fragment. I found these pages in an antique shop in the neighbouring town, they were taped into passepartouts, but were lying in a box without any frame or support. I collected as much pages as I could find and bought the lot for 15 CHF, not very cheap but as I had never seen anything similar in an antiques shop I was willing to pay this price, even though it seemed a bit on the top end for me.
The pages all belong to an early department store catalogue. Maybe you know that in Europe the early 20th century saw a rise of the department store, shops like “Au bon marché” or “Au printemps” became not only the first large and luxurious mall-like stores where you could buy anything, they also offered mail-order and shipped catalogues to their clients.
What I found are pages from the swiss issue of the Summer 1907 mail-order catalogue of “Au printemps“. Most interesting for me was to see how the change from made-to-measure-tailor dresses to store-bought off-the-rack fashion. The women’s fashion in these few pages ranges from made-to-measure over half-sewn and not-sewn to ready-made garments.
Now, without much ado, enjoy all these pigeon breasts:

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Auf deutsch

So lange war ich nicht mehr dabei, aber diesen Monat zeige ich euch endlich auch mal wieder ein wenig Trödel im Rahmen von “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut“, gehostet von dem Beswingten Fräulein.
Was ihr hier sehr ist der klägliche Rest eines Kaufhaus-Katalogs von 1907. Kaufhäuser waren um die Jahrhundertwende ja gross im Kommen und boten nicht nur ein ganz neues Einkaufserlebnis in riesigen Luxus-Tempeln die scheinbar alles nur denkbare anboten, es gab auch die Möglichkeit, per Katalog vom Sofa aus zu bestellen, frühe Versandhäuser also. Dies sind Seiten des Schweizer Katalogs des Kaufhauses “Au Printemps” für den Sommer 1907. Gefunden habe ich sie in der Nachbarstadt in einem kleinen Antikladen, sie lagen eingeklebt in Passepartouts, aber ohne Rahmen oder sonst einen Schutz, in einer Kiste mit allem möglichen anderen Krempel. Ich habe so viele Seiten wie ich finden konnte zusammengeklaubt (man darf sagen gerettet^^), trotzdem sind es längst nicht alle. Abgeknöpft wurden mir dafür 15 Franken. Das fand ich ehrlich gesagt recht teuer, aber da ich noch nie etwas vergleichbares gefunden hatte, war es mir die Sache trotzdem wert. Was ich besonders interessant finde, ist der sichtbare Wandel von massgeschneiderter Schneider-Mode hin zu Modellen “von der Stange”. Neben diesen beiden findet man im Katalog auch Zwischenschritte, halbangefertigt und nichtangefertigt.
Und jetzt lasse ich einfach Bilder sprechen 🙂

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See you soon, alles Liebe,

ette

How deep can you fall? “Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut” in march

As every month, Bewingtes Fräulein asks us to show our flea market, antiques shoppings and other old stuff hauls and I happily oblige.

The day I photographed my embroidered basket, I went to a charity shop nearby. This shop had opened already a while ago and I had been there once shortly after the opening. But as you can imagine, shop like these do have to grow a little while to get interesing, to become a treasure cave that you want to search and my first visit wasn’t very fruitful at all. After I had took the photos I thought it was about time to see if it already had become more interesting. Oh yes, it had! When I left more than an hour later I was heavily laden with all kinds of stuff, 6m of vintage silk, a 50ies paper basket, an old porcelain ginger jar, only to name a few.
Today I want to show you the item I spent most on this day, at the same time this was the greatest bargain of all. The item I was ecstatic and horrified to find at the same time.

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Maybe some of you might remember: When I started my blog in june 2011, one of the first posts I wrote was about a 19th century dalmatic I found at a flea market. This kind of church vestment is worn by the deacon in the catholic mass. I loved being able to touch a silk that old and to see how the 19th century copied styles from earlier centuries.
(Note: this is not going to be a post about faith, god and the church. My interest lies in the development of the forms and styles of these vestments and the fabrics used for them. It is absolutely not in my interest to evangelise anybody, I am not even catholic myself. When I would talk about 18th century court dress you wouldn’t expect opinions on absolutism, either, would you 😉 )

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While the deacon wears the dalmatic, during the mass the priest is wearing something called a chasuble. The chasuble started as a long, half circle cone shaped garment, that was gathered at the sides to release the arms. As you can imagine this resulted in a lot of fabric lying on the priests arms. Many medieval works of art show this kind of bell-shaped chasuble. During the centuries the sides where more and more shortened to lessen the amount of fabric gathered on the arms. The longing for elaborate decoration grew every decade and when the chasubles were made from heavier and stiffer fabrics or completely encrusted in gold embroidery, pleats and gathers were a) very impractical because of the stiffness and b) didn’t show the beautiful design and even destroyed it through rubbing and tearing. Around 1600 the shape changed, the gathered sides were completely gone and the chasuble had reached the so-called “fiddle-shape”, because of the curved front cut that resembles a fiddle. Now the chasubles where very stiff and looked more like a shell then like a garment. To prevent the already stiff embroidery and fabrics from wrinkling, an interlining made from paper or parchment was added.

So much prelude to understand what I found that day.

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What you see here is the back of a chasuble, the fabrics date from ca. the 1770ies (the pink one, still not sure about the yellow one, but it’s 2nd half 18th ct., no doubt). While the sides are made from a dusky pink silk damask (most probably lyonese), the middle part shows a very complex silber brocaded silk fabric. I will limit my technical descriptions to the image subtitles, if you are interested.

When you turn this frame around, you see that it isn’t a chasuble anymore. What is still visible is the upper part of the front. The fabric is very damaged due to the rites in the mass. Until the 2nd vatican council in the 1960ies most of the mass the priest faced the altar, therefore showing his back to the crowd (that is the reason, why chasubles often have a rich back decoration). Manipulating all the different instruments on the altar, rubbing with the belly on the stone of the latter left traces on the fabrics. I can at least be happy that the front is still existant, not few chasubles where undid and only the backs saved.

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Lie it on the floor and you see what happened: Someone undid the shoulderseams and placed the back onto the front part after relining everything. And I would argue that this lining is not older than maybe 30 years, so this is a very recent reworking.

To cut a long story short: Why was it altered?
Well, it is decorative, it is antique. It was very “en vogue” for a long time to decorate the house with antique textiles (and still is). You can’t do much with a chasuble, it doesn’t lie flat because of the shoulders (watch the movie “The third man” carefully, in one scene you will see a chasuble on a drawer, like a giant doily). Altered like this you can use it to hide your radiator, as an alternative to a picture and so on. That this will damage the fabric because silks that old shouldn’t be exposed to light is partly unknown partly ignored.
I wouldn’t have bought an item like this in an antique store, because I would have supported this practice. The seller in the charity shop didn’t even know what it was, I assume she got it when a dissolved household was given to her.

Obviously the cut was altered at least one more time before this installation, you see the light damage.
Obviously the cut was altered at least one more time before this installation, you see the light damage and the remains of an old seam ¦ Offenbar wurde die Kasel schon einmal verändert, man sieht den Lichtschaden und alte Nahtspuren.

Why this makes me sad?
I am not religious, but I do respect faith and in my believe we should show some respect to the believes of others as well as to the things our ancestors made. To see something as “high” as a church vestment and as precious as silver brocaded 18th century silk between plastic potties and 90ies back packs just hurts my heart. I know that the museums of the world can’t save everything, but this just didn’t seem right to me.

Why this makes me happy?
Well, because I paid 10 CHF. Chasubles in good condition can cost hundreds of Swiss Francs (or Euro or dollar, it doesn’t really matter, it simply is very very cheap), and most of them are younger. So even though this chasuble is damaged and altered, the brocaded fabric is magnificent and the fabrics alone should be worth more.

At the moment it is rolled on a large cardboard tube with acid-free silk tissue between the layers, I will give it to my professor’s study collection at the university. Like this, future students can learn from it and it will be appreciated as the item it is: a witness of the past.

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Auf Deutsch

Wie jeden Monat ruft das Beswingte Fräulein dazu auf, unsere neuen alten Errungeschaften des Vormonats zu präsentieren. Da bin ich doch mal wieder dabei 🙂

Als ich meinen Korb vor einigen Wochen fotografierte, stattete ich kurz danach dem ortlichen Trödelladen einen Besuch ab. Ich war erst einmal kurz nach der Eröffnung dort gewesen, damals war er noch dementsprechend leer und langweilig. Solche Läden brauchen ja immer etwas Zeit zum wachsen, bis sie zu Fundgruben reifen. Jetzt, dachte ich, könnte ich mal wieder nachschauen, und tatsächlich, eine Schatztruhe. Nach über einer Stunde verlies ich den Laden schwer bepackt, unter anderem mit 6m alter (=ca. 1960) Seide, einem 50er Jahre Papierkorb und einem Ingwerglas aus Porzellan.
Das Fundstück aber, für das ich am meisten Geld ausgab und welches gleichzeitig das grösste Schnäppchen war, das mich gleichzeitig verzückt grinsen und verzweifeln liess, möchte ich euch heute vorstellen.

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Next to the colourful flower pattern, there is a monochrome damask pattern in the background ¦ Neben dem farbigen Muster sieht man noch ein Damastmuster im Hintergrund.

Vielleicht mögen sich ein paar noch erinnern: Als ich im Juni 2011 mit meinem Blog anfing, schrieb ich einen meiner ersten Posts über ein Kirchengewand aus dem 19. Jahrhundert, welches ich auf einem Flohmarkt gefunden hatte, eine Dalmatik, wie sie vom Diakon während der Messe getragen wird. Ich war begeistert davon, die alte Seide berühren zu können und zu sehen, wie das 19. Jahrhundert seine Inspration aus früheren Jahrhunderten zog.
(Kurze Anmerkung für alle die etwas zögern: Es wird hier nicht um Glaube, Gott oder die Kirche gehen. Ich interessiere mich für die Formgeschichte dieser Kleidungsstücke sowie die dafür verwendeten Stoffe. Es liegt mir fern, zu missionieren, ich bin ja selbst nicht einmal katholisch. Würde ich über höfische Mode des 18. Jahrhunderts reden erwartet ja auch niemend eine Meinung zum Absolutismus, oder 😉 )

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As you see, the patterned areas look very 3-dimensional, further down I explain why. The grey lines on the yellowground are silver threads, woven between the silk threads ¦ Man sieht schön, wie die Blumen hervortreten, weiter unten versuche ich das zu erklären. Die grauen Striche sind Silberfäden, die zwischen die gelbe Seide gewoben wurden

Während der Diakon also die Dalmatik trägt, kleidet sich der Prister während der Messe in die sogenannte Kasel. Diese war ursprünglich ein langes Gewand, geschnitten aus  einem Halbkreis und vorne zusammengenäht (eigentlich wie ein halber Tellerrock, nur länger und eben auf den Schultern getragen), die sogenannte Glockenkasel. Um die Arme bewegen zu können, raffte man den Stoff an den Seiten zusammen, dieser lag dann als faltiger Berg auf den Unterarmen. Viele mittelalterliche Kunstwerke zeigen das sehr schön. Im Laufe der Zeit wurden die Seiten immer mehr gekürzt, die Stoffberge auf den Armen wurden weniger. Gleichzeitig begann man, die Kaseln immer aufwändiger zu verzieren und  als man begann a) steifere und auffällig gemusterte Gewebe sowie b) schwere Goldstickereien zu verwenden, konnten die Kaseln endgültig nicht mehr gerafft werden. Nicht nur weil dann von den ganzen schönen Mustern kaum etwas zu sehen gewesen wäre, sondern auch weil das Aneinanderreiben der Goldfäden sehr schnell zu Schäden geführt hätte. Um 1600 hatte die Kasel daher eine Form angenommen, die man heute als “Bassgeigen-Kasel” bezeichnet, aufgrund des Zuschnitts auf der Vorderseite, der Ähnlichkeit mit eben einer solchen hat. Um Faltenwurf und Knittern zu verhindern wurden diese Kaseln zusätzlich mit Pergament oder Papier versteift.

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You see the paper under the fabric and unterneath a red linen fabric, maybe the original lining ¦ Hier sieht man das Papier unter dem Stoff und dahinter einen roten Leinenstoff, vielleicht das ursprüngliche Futter.

So, lange Vorrede, aber notwendig um zu verstehen, was ich euch heute zeigen möchte.
Was ihr oben seht ist die Rückseite einer eben solchen Bassgeigen-Kasel,  die Stoffe sind aus den 1770ern (zumindest der pinke, der gelbe ist auch sicher aus der 2. Hälfte des 18. Jhdts.). Die Seiten sind aus einem altrosa Seidendamast (sehr wahrscheinlich aus Lyon), der Mittelteil besteht aus einem sehr komplexen Seidengewebe mit Silberfäden. Ich werde meinen technischen Senf auf die Bildunterschriften beschränken, falls ihr interessiert seid.

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You see that the green threads turn after the motif has ended, not like in normal weaving where the weft passes through the whole width, this technique is called “brocading”, the silver vases are made the same way ¦ Hier sieht man, dass die grünen Fäden nicht auf der Rückseite weiterlaufen, wie es normal in einem Gewebe ist, sondern nach dem Motiv umkehren. Diese Technik nennt sich “broschieren”, die silbernen Vasen sind genauso gearbeitet.

Wenn man den Holzrahmen dreht wird sichtbar, dass es eben keine Kasel mehr ist. Immer noch sichtbar ist die obere Hälfte der Vorderseite. Der Stoff ist hier ziemlich beschädigt. Das liegt an der Verwendung, denn bis zum 2. vatikanischen Konzil in den 1960ern wurde ein Grossteil der Messe mit dem Rücken zu den Glüubigen zelebriert. Die Bewegungen, die Kelche und die Altarkante, ihr könnt euch vorstellen was da mit einer Seide alles passieren kann. Aber das ist auch der Grund, weshalb historische Kaseln vor allem den Rücken dekoriert haben. Bei dieser kann man froh sein, dass die Vorderseite noch existiert, nicht wenige Kaseln wurden komplett demontiert und nur der Rücken bewahrt.

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Wenn man das Ding mal auf den Boden legt, sieht man, was passiert ist: Die Schulternähte wurden aufgetrennt und der Rücken auf dem Vorderteil festgenäht, nachdem man das Ganze neu gefüttert hatte. Und dieses weisse Futter ist in meinen Augen nicht älter als 30 Jahre, es ist also eine relativ neue Umarbeitung.

Um es kurz zu machen: Warum macht man sowas?
Es ist schön, dekorativ, ein alter Stoff. Es war lange Zeit ziemlich “in”, seine Wohnung mit alten Stoffen zu schmücken (und ist es immer noch in bestimmten Kreisen). Mit einer Kasel kann man nicht so viel machen, flach liegend stehen die Schultern ab, es gibt ein Loch in der Mitte (schaut euch mal aufmerksam “Der dritte Mann” an, in einer Szene liegt eine Kasel auf einer Kommode im Hintergrund, wie ein riesiges Deckchen). So abgeändert kann man damit Heizkörper verstecken oder einfach etwas anderes als ein Bild als Dekoration haben. Dass so alte Stoffe nicht mehr dem Licht ausgesetzt werden sollen wird gerne ignoriert, manche wissen es vielleicht auch gar nicht.
Ich hätte ein solches Objekt nie in einem Antiquitäten-Laden gekauft, denn da müsste ich von einem System ausgehen und ich laufe Gefahr, eine solche Praxis zu unterstützen. Die Verkäuferin im Trödelladen wusste nicht einmal, was es ist. Wahrscheinlich hat sie es mit einer Haushaltsauflösung bekommen. Die Chance dass sie so etwas nähen würde, ist verschwindend gering.

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The vases are woven with a special kind of thread, a thin silver “tinsel” is wrapped around a white silk thread ¦ Die Vasen sind aus sogenanntem Silberlahn gemacht, bei diesem Garn wird ein dünner Silberstreifen um eine (hier weisse) Seidenseele gewickelt

Warum verzweifeln?
Ich bin nicht besonders gläubig, aber ich respektiere den Glauben. Und so  wie man meiner Meinung die Überzeugungen anderer akzeptieren sollte, sollte man auch die Zeugnisse, die uns aus der Vergangenheit erhalten sind respektieren. Etwas so würdevolles wie ein Kirchengewand und so kostbares und aufwändiges wie eine silber-broschierte Seide aus dem 18. Jahrhundert gehört einfach nicht zwischen Töpfchen und Billigrucksäcke, das tut mir einfach weh zu sehen. Ich weiss, dass die Museen auch nicht alles retten können, aber das fühlt sich für mich einfach falsch an.

Warum Verzücken?
Weil ich 10 Franken bezahlt hab. Kaseln können mehrere Hundert kosten, dann vielleicht im guten Zustand, aber auch oft jünger.  Auch wenn  diese beschädigt und umgearbeitet ist, alleine der Stoff ist mehr wert.

Zur Zeit lagere ich sie gerollt auf einer grossen Versandrolle mit säurefreiem Seidenpapier zwischen den Lagen. Ich werde sie der Studiensammlung meiner Professorin geben, so können zukünftige Studenten von ihr lernen und sie als das würdigen, was sie ist: Ein Zeugnis der Vergangenheit.

Das war viel, das war lang, ich hoffe ihr seid noch bei mir. Wünsche euch einen schönen Sonntag!

 That was long, that was a lot, hope you are still with me. I wish you a lovely sunday.

ette

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut – Mystery Edition

Deutsche Version unten

It’s the first of the month and as always Frl Swing invites fellow flea market addicts and charity shop haulers to show their latest finds.
I would like to use this month’s showcase to present a little mystery item, hopefully the online community’s wisdom can help me figure out what it was meant for.

I found it only a few weeks ago on a flea market. When I see boxes I have to open them but most of the time they contain nothing or pens or compasses or stuff like this. So I was pretty surprised, discovering something that at least looked remotely like something to sew with. And for a price of 3 CHF I was willing to take it with me (no, the seller had no idea of its function, either).

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A construction made from metal stick with a wooden knob on top. At the end sits a machine needle, but in a slight angle. Tightly around this stick sits a sleeve with something resembling a sewing foot at its end.

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When holding the thing by the sleeve you can press down the knob and the needle goes down through the foot. There is no spring inside, so you have to pull it up again yourself. The little l-shaped thing next to the needle has a little hole in the middle, I suppose you could use it to thread your yarn through it. The screw and the teeth directly below the knob allow to adjust how deep the needle can go down.

My dad and I assume this could be some kind of upholstery tool, maybe to attach buttons to a sofa, but I can’t see how it would exactly work and I wasn’t able to find any information on it online

Have you seen something similar and can help me? I would be so very happy as I would love to know how it works.

Auf Deutsch:

Lieben Dank für einen neuen Monat “Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut“, liebes Frl. Swing.

Ich möchte dieses Mal eine geheimnisvolle Apparatur vorstellen und hoffe ein wenig auf die geballte Intelligenz des Internets, vielleicht hat ja jemand von euch sowas schon einmal gesehen. Gefunden habe ich dieses “Ding” auf einem Flohmarkt vor ein paar Wochen, hübsch versteckt in der oben sichtbaren Box.

Auf einer Metallstange ist ein Holzknopf befestigt, am anderen Ende wird eine Nähmaschinennadel angeschraubt, allerding in einem leichten Winkel. Vor der Nadel ist noch ein kleines gebogenes Plättchen (was im Bild wie ein “l” aussieht), durch welches man vermutlich einen Faden fädeln kann.  Um diesen Stab herum gearbeitet ist eine bewegliche Hülse, am unteren Ende etwas, was verdächtig nach Nähfüsschen aussieht. Wenn ich das Ding an der Hülse festhalte und den Knopf herunterdrücke senkt sich die Nadel durch dieses Füsschen. Da es offenbar keine Feder im Inneren hat, muss man die Nadel auf dieselbe Weise wieder hochziehen. Mit den Zähnchen unterhalb des Knopfes kann eingestellt werden, wie weit die Nadel durch den Fuss sticht.
Gekostet hat es mich 3Fr., auch weil der Verkäufer selber keine Ahnung hatte, was es sein könnte.

Mein Vater und ich mussten beide an Polsterarbeiten denken, er hatte die Idee, dass man damit vielleicht Knöpfe an einer Rückenlehne oder so annähen kann, auch wenn die genaue Arbeitsweise dann immer noch unklar bleibt. Zudem habe ich im Internet keinerlei Informationen finden können, die diesem Ding auch nur ansatzweise nahe kommen.

Habt ihr so etwas schon einmal gesehen oder wisst, wofür es gut sein könnte? Ich würde mich sehr freuen, etwas über dieses Schätzchen herauszubekommen und es vielleicht sogar einmal auszuprobieren. 

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See you soon, love

ette

Charity shops can be quite expensive if you aren’t wary Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut

German version below!

Somehow I always miss to post what I found on flea markets. Either I don’t make it to write a post in time or I think it isn’t that interesting to show it here. But now after a “few” months’ break, another “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut!“-Post, hosted as each month on Beswingtes Fräulein’s blog “Beswingtes Allerlei“.

The past few weeks have been different and somewhat insecure. After having additionally worked in the museum until September it was hard to adapt to the one salary I earn at the bookshop again and until two weeks ago it wasn’t clear if I could raise my pensum there (luckily I can!). So this month’s motto should have been: Saving. And really, I cooked more often so much I was able to eat leftovers at work instead of buying something for lunch, I reduced my consumption of take-away coffees to as good as none (I think I bought two, one was sponsored by my boyfriend)and I said to myself not to go shopping anymore unless I really needed something. Excluded from this were flea markets and used items, though I think I didn’t visit a single flea market the whole month, don’t have to tempt myself unneccessarily 😉

Well, I am far from being perfect and so I have to admit that this is also the month I bought the most shoes since…well, very long. Five pairs, to be honest, three of them new. Yes, shame on me (but they are so beautiful and were so reasonably priced….oh).

I don’t even know why I begged my boyfriend to stop at this charity shop. I felt I just needed a little shopping feeling and though this would be less dangerous than going elsewhere. Because he really hates this particular shop he only accompanied me a few minutes and left then to wait in the car. Baaaad decision. Right after he had left I picked up a pair of black leather boots for half the price (he wouldn’t let me buy shoes, he hates how many I already own) and then to make things worse I found this amongst the antique books:

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And yes, I bought it. With 40 CHF it was quite expensive, but I still think it was a good buy.

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A very big book “Lehrkurs der Selbstschneiderei” (training course to home sewing), a smaller appendix with patterns for knitting and crocheting and even a postcard to order other books from this publisher as well as a pay-in slip.

The appendix is not overly interesting to photograph:

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But the book itself! It has no date given, but judging from the illustrations and photos it should date from the 1930ies.

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And it covers really everything remotely connected with textiles. Dying and weaving…

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..different kinds of stitches and embroidery (yes, in full colour!)…

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…how to decorate and finish seams and hems…

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…knitting and crocheting for children and grown-ups…

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…photos of beautiful finished projects…

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…different collars and even hat decorations and alterations…

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…ideas on how to alter a basic pattern to give it a new look…

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…and last but not least some fashion illustrations…

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I really hope to use it in the future, though I have to admit I tend to forget these kinds of things when working with patterns and just do as I am told or as I already know. But I really would like to try some of these ideas and at least I paid so much for it, would be a shame if I wouldn’t use it.

Auf Deutsch

Nachdem ich meist entweder das Datum verschlafe und nicht rechtzeitig fertig werde oder ich die erstandenen Dinge nicht für interessant genug erachte, hier nun endlich wieder ein “Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut”- Beitrag von mir.
Eigentlich sollte ich diesen Monat ja sparen, aber aus welchen Gründen auch immer musste ich in diesen Trödelladen und war als ich rauskam um ein dickes Buch und ein paar Schuhe reicher, aber auch um einiges Geld ärmer. Das Buch “Lehrkurs der Selbstschneiderei” hat mich komplett mit Schachtel, beiliegendem Heft, einer alten Bestellkarte und Einzahlungsschein 40 Franken gekostet,  etwa 34€. Ein Datum lässt sich nirgends finden, aber anhand der Fotos ist es aus den 30er Jahren.  Im Heft finden sich Schnittmuster für Strick- und Häkelprojekte, im Buch selber gibt es dann weniger Schnittmuster (vor allem Basisschnitte zum vergrössern), aber umso mehr Verarbeitungstipps, Anleitungen und Ideen. Und vom Färben und Weben über Stricken, Sticken, Schleifchen machen bis hin zum kompletten Herrenhemd und sogar  Hutänderungen ist wirklich alles dabei. Zwischendrin immer wieder Fotos von Beispielobjekten, farbige Seiten und unzählige Beispiele für Krägen, Details, Verzierungen, Borten, Knopfleisten und was-weiss-ich -nicht-alles. Eine Fundgrube, wahrhaft. Dumm nur dass ich solche Bücher meist genau dann im Schrank lasse, wenn ich nähe und die Schnittmuster nach Anleitung oder Erfahrung zusammenknüppel. Ich hoffe wirklich ich bessere mich in dieser Hinsicht und setze zumindest ein paar dieser Ideen um, wär doch schade drum (um die Ideen und um das Geld 🙂 )

See you soon, love,

ette

 

 

 

chocolates and silk

It has been months since I participted at Beswingtes Fräulein’s Getrödelt gefunden gefreut.


First because the date always collides with the due date for the HSF-challenges and I didn’t manage to write two posts in such a short time, second because sometimes I can’t decide what to show you and plan too large posts in my head I never even start to write.

And since we know that we will move again in a few months, this time into a smaller flat, I suffer from a total flea-market-ban. I already have too much things to move into the new flat, it really wouldn’t be wise to buy much more (though it is so hard!).

But a few days ago when having a close look at old books and some incunable pages my favourite antiquarian bookshop had put out for me I couldn’t help dropping into a lovely antique shop just next door. The owner knows me and knows in what kind of stuff I am interested in.  When I asked him if he had something for me he said no, only a pin cushion box he would assume I am interested in. But I thought being already there I could as well have a look. Unfortunately I had to tell him that it wasn’t a pin cushion at all and the sight of the pins in the already very damaged silk really hurt. But it was so lovely I had to buy it.

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It is quite large, maybe 25cm diametre. The motif is flocked or maybe painted onto the satin, which is, as cleary visible, very fragile and damaged, much of the warp thread is disappeared. On the bottom left you can see a small signature (it is hard to decipher, I assume it says “Chembine” but I can’t find anything online)
The bottom is covered with a patterned paper I am pretty sure is not original but was added in the 2nd half of the 20th century.

The inside of the lid proved my assumption it being not a pin cushion at all, but some kind of chocolate or praline box.

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“Au Vieux Gourmet” in Nancy, a french city appr. 300km north of Berne.

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I love love love this Robe de Style motif and the cute little doll the  woman is holding in her hands. This may be the main reason I couldn’t pass on this one, even if it was quite expensive with 30 CHF (appr. 25€).

And because this was really the only thing I bought this month I thought I could show you its little brother, another chocolate box I already bought over a year ago in another antique shop only a few metres away from the other one.

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Silk, again. This one in a dark red and ruffled, topped with a tambour embroidery in silk and (fake?) gold thread, a golden lace attached to the side.

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You see, the silk is damaged, too. The seller assumed it to be a little younger than the new one above, maybe from the 1930ies. And she gave me the hint of it being a chocolate box.

The inside is a little more interesting because there is some paper lace still in place, though very torn and dirty.

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While the 20ies box looks great inside (but as I said, I assume it being changed later), this box doesn’t look as nice. Maybe this is the reason the seller asked only 10CHF for it (appr. 8€). I have to admit I never searched for these boxes, so 10CHF being cheap and 30CHF being more on the expensive side is a very subjective evaluation, I have no idea what these things cost elsewhere.

 

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And now you might ask how I use this box without completely destroying the paper lace (because I do use it, I try not to collect things I can’t use because I have neither enough room nor enough money to buy everything I like).

I use it to keep some of my jewellery. To protect the paper lace I covered the whole inside with a sheet of acid free wrapping paper. Like this nothing touches the inside and the lace and the material doesn’t harm it either (if I would use standard, acid, paper it would make the old substance brown and brittle, it would disintegrate sooner or later as you can see with old books, who sometimes just fall apart because of the acid in the paper itself)

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Though I do already have so much boxes and old tins I really love these silk covered ones and I can’t promise that I won’t buy some more if I find some.

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And I really hope the next post will be about some sewing project again. 😉

See you soon, love,

ette

 

 

 

 

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut: department store stories and old news

Again, one month later. And as every month, Beswinges Fräulein is hosting her “Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut”-series where everybody can show what he or she found at flea markets in the month before.

Well, there really was only one flea market this month, on a sunday where I decided to stay at home and sew instead. But I had a flyer I picked up a few weeks ago at another flea market, giving the adress of what was called a flea market and took place once a month on friday and saturday. Normally either my boyfriend or me have to work and getting there without the car (that my boyfriend needs to get to work) is rather complicated. So I had never been there. In this week we both had our week off and I begged him to go to this flea market on friday.

In fact it wasn’t a real market, but a small shop, where different sellers each had one corner/table/area. It was quite weird because that also meant that you had to pay in each zone seperately, a fact I of course didn’t knew until one of the sellers stopped me from going on and urged me to pay, obviously nervous that I could steal her treasures. Well, the misunderstanding was cleared very quickly and in the end I had found a handful of lovely items, I would like to show you.

A fabric-covered photo album, never used.

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The back cover shows the retailer’s sticker, Kaiser & Co. AG, Bern. Kaiser was one of the large department stores in Bern, run after the model of the famous “Le bon marché” in Paris. The family started their business in the late 19th century with a bookshop, in 1903/04 they built a house for their store, the Kaiserhaus, which still exists and is still named like this, though the Kaiser department store closed its doors in 1972.

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And it really is a fun coincidence: I don’t know if anybody still remembers, but I wrote one of my first posts on this blog (it didn’t survive the move to the new url, so I can’t link to it) about a 19th century church vestment and the previous owner told me that it might have come from the private collection of one member of the Kaiser-family. I was unable to prove this assumption, but still, I like the idea of having bought an item from an old Bernese collection.

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The second little piece I bought isn’t for myself, but for my boyfriend.

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I gave him a classic safety razor for christmas and when I saw this small travel razor for only 5 CHF I instantly bought it and gave it to him after we had left the shop, because he had waited so patiently while I was inside for a whole hour.

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As you see, one part of the handle is nearly black, this and the colour of the upper part makes me assume, that the handle is silver-plated. In the paper on the left are the blades and you see the price tag still attached, 0,95 CHF, bought at Loeb. Loeb is another department store in Bern, opened in 1881 and still family-owned. The bookshop I work at is located in the Loeb flagship store, which has been in this place, directly in front of the main station, since 1929. So crabwise, I work for this company.

The third and last thing I would like to show you has nothing to do with department stores, but tells stories as well.

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This are issues of the “Schweizerische Unterhaltungsblätter” from a whole year, namely from 1925.

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Or, put differently, 1694 pages of yesterday’s news 😀

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It took me the whole afternoon to get through it, without reading any of the longer articles. It has something of everything in it: fashion, a little crafting, news, reports, novels or short stories, recipes and household hints, riddles, celebrities, well, everything.

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I love old newspaper ads
a rococo-costume-group
a rococo-costume-group

I love things like this. Of course they are a lovely source for fashion, patterns and tutorials. But they are real time capsules, too. I love to read news, that have long become history. I love to see once popular faces that have long been forgotten, I love to see photos that will never be possible like this anymore.

New York's Hudson docks (compare to today)
New York’s Hudson docks (compare to today)
Chicago's North Michigan Avenue (compare to today)
Chicago’s North Michigan Avenue (compare to today)
the walking sticks and umbrella section in a lost property office
the walking sticks and umbrella section in a lost property office

I really had a hard time picking only a few favourites to show you.

American hair trend no. 1: style two thin strands on your forehead into the shape of a heart upside down
American hair trend no. 1: style two thin strands on your forehead into the shape of a heart upside down
American hair trend no. 2: becuase the page-boy cut was becoming boring...
American hair trend no. 2: because the page-boy cut was becoming boring…
Muriel Vanderbilt's first engagement, she married the same year but got divorced already in 1929 only to marry two more times
Muriel Vanderbilt’s first engagement, she married the same year but got divorced already in 1929 only to marry two more times
a report on first steps in sound film
a report about first steps in sound film, “How a talking film is produced”
anybody able to imagine reading about an airship accident in the news?
anybody able to imagine reading about an airship accident in the news?
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though I like 20ies fashion, this coat in the middle is definitely too much
anybody else feeling the urge to start playing tennis only to embroider a racket bag?
anybody else feeling the urge to start playing tennis only to embroider a racket bag?
once popular actresses I had never heard of (Betty Bronson, Alice Calhoun, Vilma Banky)
once popular actresses I had never heard of (Betty Bronson, Alice Calhoun, Vilma Banky)
when history was news: the suicide of Max Linder, three weeks after his death.
when history was news: the suicide of Max Linder, three weeks after his death.

And my absolute favourite: A couple, arguing if the new fashion to wear the ends of the stockings rolled in, is a mere female fashion or if men can wear it as well.

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look at her face! as if she sais “kidding?”

Never-ending fun for only 25 CHF, I won’t complain about that!

So much for today, see you soon,

love,

ette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sources: http://bauforschungonline.ch/aufsatz/warenhäuser-der-stadt-bern.html, http://www.snb.ch/n/mmr/reference/snb_bern_100_complete/source, http://www.loeb.ch/de/loeb/geschichte.html, http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vanderbilt

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut

It’s already the 1st, that means it’s already time for another Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut-post, hosted by Beswingtes Fräulein each month on her blog Beswingtes Allerlei.

It’s not that I didn’t buy anything interesting since december (last time I participated), but in january I simply forgot it and the days around february 1st were very busy in a very very sad way. So as you can imagine,  I really wasn’t in the mood to chat about old stuff, but was relieved to be able to publish some posts I had already prepared beforehand to fill the gap of the last few weeks.
For the same reason I didn’t participate in the 3rd HSF-Challenge, which would have been “Pink”. But I will blog about my project for the 4th challenge, which ends today, soon.

But let’s talk about something moree cheerful and let me present to you two things I bought in february at the antique fair in Thun:

I don’t know about you, but I can’t remember finding Vintage lingery at an antique fair, it is just too far away from the focus of most visitors (and sellers alike). I am not much of an online shopper, so I never attempted to buy anything like this on the internet. To be honest, this ist an item I had never searched for, but when I saw it I knew I had to have it 🙂

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A 1930ies pale pink bra with mesh cups. It only has some very few stains and two little holes in the mesh, which is in fact very brittle.

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I love the parallel seams below the cups.

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In the back it closes with two mother-of-pearl-buttons on an elastic:

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The inside shows no label or anything similar.

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Though of course I wouldn’t wear it , I had hoped to create a pattern from it. Unfortunately it doesn’t fit at all, not a bit. It will be much easier to draft a pattern all by myself. But I don’t mind, I still love having it in my collection.

The second thing I want to show you is not very interesting at first glance.

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I already own too many embroidery books, the only thing that attracted me on this 1921 exemplar was its placing in a 50%-off-box and so for 4,50 CHF, I bought it.

There are in fact some nice patterns and ideas in it, so after all it was certainly a good buy.

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A big bonus was, that it still had all its original pattern sheets.

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But only in the evening I cared to take a closer look at the sheets in the back of the book. And what a surprise. There were a lot more sheets than those belonging to the book.

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Different sheets with canvas embroidery, patterns for early machine embroidery and an attachment with embroidery and crocheting patterns.
And then I saw something that really made me scream. A sewing pattern sheet:

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I know that 20ies sewing patterns exist, I have a bunch of scans on my computer from some magazines a dear friend once borrowed me, but they are comparably hard to find and often very expensive.
Now I own at least one sheet and I got it for free, considering that I was willing to pay the 4,50 CHF for the book alone.
Besides some children’s patterns there are at least three patterns for women. Unfortunately all too large for me, but resizing won’t be much of a problem, I hope.

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So much antiques for this month, see you soon, love

ette

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut #4

As each month, SwinginCat is hosting “Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut” at her blog “Beswingtes Allerlei”. Thank you so much for this series!

I haven’t been to one single flea market in november. First because I was pretty busy, second because it is cold (ok, that doesn’t keep me from going normally) and third because I was stunned discovering what loads of stuff I have while moving. Buying antique patterns on sundays and working the rest of the week is fine, but this doesn’t give you any chance to work with the things you purchased. So I decided to reduce my fleamarket-sundays and increase my sewing-sundays, let’s see how long I will be able to stick to it. 🙂

I’m not sure if I mentioned it, in november I spent a whole week in Gotha, a city in Thüringen/Germany. We visited Schloss Friedenstein, a rather unimpressive baroque castle from the outside, but with an amazing interiour and a lovely textile collection in storage, which we (some fellow art historians and students along with our professor) were able to see and examine.

And there I found, what is to become this month’s find:

maybe the trained eye is already able to discern some characteristic features?

On one of the evenings I went to an antique book shop, as I always do when finding the time to do so. Having dicovered the shelf with handcrafting and decorative arts I was first a little disappointed, because nothing was really interesting. But directly next to the shelf I found a whole stack of pattern magazines, some in great, other in deplorable condition.
The seller refused to say what he asked for one magazine, but forced me to give him a prize for the whole lot. I, knowing what those magazines can cost today and knowing that I wasn’t willing to spend this amount of money that one evening, declined to make an offer. So he did, unfortunately one that I wasn’t able to resist.

The lot consists of 19 Beyer pattern magazines, dating mostly from 1938 to 1942, there is  each from 1937 and 1944. Instructions and patterns are almost completely included (only one magazine misses one of the pattern sheets).

Included in the stack were some other things as well: A 1939 zipper promotion (all those little arrows point to where they used the zippers on the garments)…

…some fragments of other handcrafting magazines (and a cover of another Beyer issue), two pattern sheets of now lost Vobach-magazines and lots of so-called “Abplättmuster”. These are patterns, mostly for embroidery, printed in a special blue ink, that can be ironed onto fabric. So you don’t need to transfer the pattern by drawing, but simply by ironing. Some of those patterns are Vobach ones as well, but the majority belongs to the Beyer-magazines. Because those patterns had to be ordered mostly seperately, they are not dated, but only marked with a number. I am pretty sure that those numbers will match many of the ones given in the magazines.

On the one hand I think we are all aware of the fact, that those magazines are a product of their time. On the other hand they had a life afterwards and they still have. This becomes very obvious when looking at the patterns that have been used. They where traced onto old newspapers, sometimes years after publishing (as today, I still use my 1990ies patterns). In the 1937 issue I found a 3rd Reich newspaper from 1939 right next to a socialist one from 1950. We don’t know if the owner changed between those two dates or if it was the same person, but it is quite interesting that the older pattern wasn’t thrown away as well as those are both mute witnesses of two very different totalitarian regimes, used in a completely unpolitical way after they had fulfilled their original purpose.

And something a little more funny to end: I don’t know if you, but I happen to stumble across patterns that I own printed in a Burda-magazine and that are also available as a single pattern, published afterwards. While looking at all those patterns in the Beyer-magazines, every now and then I had the feeling, that I had already seen that particular pattern elsewhere. First I thought “well, it is similar to another one” or “maybe you saw it earlier when flipping through the pages”. But then I found one pattern of that I was very sure that I had already seen it, even made it.

Does somebody remember that dress I wrote about in august 2012?

I made it using a 1940ies pattern-booklet I had bought in Dresden in 2011.
Yes, and it seems as if Beyer didn’t do different than Burda does today, that is republishing patterns:

I wish you all a very beautiful 1st advent sunday!

love,

ette

Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut!

Puh, I know, this is my first post in weeks. I’m so sorry, but life got so busy, I just didn’t know where to start. I went to a conference in France, from France I flew directly to London for a job interview (and no, I will stay in Switzerland) and when I came back I went straight back to work the next morning only to welcome my father in the evening and already the next day we started moving.
Now, the moving is done, the old flat is empty, clean and given back to the housekeeper and but for a few untidy spots the new flat is complete. Right in the middle of moving I was also handed my MA-certificate, so now I am officially an art historian 🙂

So, as you can hopefully understand, I had lots of things to do and I had to neglect both blogging and sewing for a few weeks. Now my life is nearly back to normal and this month’s Getrödelt, Gefunden, Gefreut!-post is not only the post to say “welcome back”, but also the post where I will show you what I found in the weeks before the move.

 

 

As every month, SwinginCat of Beswingtes Allerlei is hosting Getrödelt, Gefreut, Gefunden! and I am really happy to be able to join again this month.

I went to France by train, but had to fly to London and from there back to Switzerland, so I had to keep the flight restrictions in mind before I left as well as in Lyon itself.
But, call it fortune or misfortune, on my first day in France, the only one that I had some free time, I ran into a flea market. It had been raining the whole day, so maybe I should be happy that there were only a few completely soaked sellers left.
And those are the things I took with me: a fabric covered glove box and a plastic Singer-box as well as some buttons. I tried to convince myself that the boxes could be filled with small garments and would need hardly any space in my suitcase, so it would be ok to buy them.

The lid of the glove box is covered with a printed fabric with light pink stripes on the sides, the bottom part is covered with blue paper.

The gloves are mine, it was empty when I bought it. Finally my gloves do have a home amd were able to move out from the box they had to share with my belts.

The second box is a original Singer-box. I assume it was used for sewing machine attachments. The red buttons will be used on my 40ies winter coat (I didn’t want to make a seperate photo of them).

I use them to store my machine needles. Can you see those metallic ovals in the foreground? They were still inside the box, I assume they were used to make buttonholes, though I have no idea, how.

All those three items were very reasonable priced. I paid 4€ for the glove box, 3€ for the Singer box and 2€ for the four buttons.

Now…lets talk about…addiction. You may know, I am addicted to books. I own too many of them, I buy too many of them, I read too little of them and I had a very hard time of getting rid of some of them before we moved. I knew we were moving, when I was in France, when I went to flea markets in the weeks before, I knew my boyfriend had already promised me, that I would have to carry my books on my own (and I did!).

still…I can’t help it:

I can’t pass on beautiful mid-century or earlier hard covers of famous authors or novels.

(from top to bottom: Novalis/ Fouqué, Graham Greene – The third man, Jules Verne – From the earth to the moon)

Just as well I had to buy this cute little 50ies book on silk (on the first page you can still see the price I paid: 7€):

And an especially weak spot of mine in books: 19th century fashion magazines. They are very high-priced in Germany as well as in Switzerland, but affordable in France (as long as you stay in the 19th century, I am still craving for that 1920ies issue, but the seller in the antique book shop asks more than 200€ for it).

The “Journal des Demoiselles” from 1878. Some of the plates are damaged or even torn, but they are still there, a lot of those compilations were cut and the plates sold seperately. That’s why I never buy those plates seperately or framed, I don’t want to support this practice (and that doesn’t only apply to fashion plates, but to other fields of interests as well)

Ok, and the last items for today, the topic is still books, but the content has changed from fashion to…cooking. Yes, my collection of old cook books is growing.

The Maggi-cook book has only very few recipes printed inside and was meant as a start to a handwritten recipe collection. The book itself is not dated, but the earliest recipe with a year given dates from 1932.

The fabric covered book is the Bernese educational cook book, that is being published until today. Those were books to learn cooking as a young girl when having home economics in school (I think most Germans know Dr. Oetkers Schulkochbuch). This issue dates from 1936 and is in deplorable condition. The pages disintegrate as soon as you touch them, comparable to old french books, I already observed this earlier with other books.

The third one is a funny one: It isn’t a cook book after all, but a law student’s exercise book. Many pages are filled with statutes and regulations. But atleer

a later point in time, somebody used it to store recipes cut out from newspapers.  There is a number of blank pages at the end, but in the middle, the recipes were simply glued on top of the writing. There is not a single date in it, but I bought it together with the two other books. The whole market stand looked like as if somebody was dissolving the household of an elderly person. It may be a little younger than the other two ones (at least the recipes) but still may date from the middle of the century.

A very long post, I’m sorry, maybe I’m trying to make up for the time without blogging.  See you soon,

love

ette

Getrödelt, gefunden, gefreut

On the very first of Juli we signed a contract to hire a new appartment, that means we will move in October. I already fear moving with all the stuff I have, so I tried to avoid charity shops and flea markets during the last weeks. But of cause, I couldn’t be completely abstinent, here are some of the things I found.

First the ones, that don’t need much explanation: Two linen damask napkins, some beautiful fabric handkerchiefs (from elegant to psychodelic^^), a veil with a cute bow on a hair comb (unfortunately the veil had many holes and I had to shorten it a little to cut them away), a ceramic mould and some wave clips.

I had already bought the wave clips on the flea market, when I found this: A little box filled with antique metal hair clips of different sorts:

They are quite dirty, some have some kind of glue on them, others are crooked. But I was fascinated by the variety of forms and for 3CHF I wasn’t able to leave them behind.

In the boy I found 25 different kinds of clips. 25!!! I couldn’t even imagine that you can realize the standard metal clip in so many different variants.

But there was another reason why I couldn’t leave them. The box was closed, when I found them, so it was the packaging that awoke my interest. Why?

A Worth-Perfume-Box! “Je reviens” was first sold in 1932 and produced until today (source). The box isn’t as old as 1932, maybe it dates from the 1950ies? So, a very little piece of Haute-Couture-History for me.

The second item I would like to present to you was found on the same flea market. It wasn’t a bargain, but not overly expensive, either. The seller asked 15CHF for it and after I had seen the rest of the market and came back to her she gave it to me for 13CHF.

Can you already guess what it could be?

Now at least all the readers who can read french, know.

It is a little sewing kit, offerered as a promotional gift by the “Grands Magasins du Louvre”, a company founded in 1855 and located in the ground floor of the Grand Hôtel du Louvre, it existed until 1974 (source).
This little goodie might date from the, what do you think, 1900s?

I hope you liked my little treasures, now I am curious to see what you found!

see you soon and enjoy the weather, love

ette