things I would never have done without Leimomi part 3

It’s been more than three months I last uploaded a HSF-project, oh dear.

After all the messy times I had this summer I was very keen to join the challenges again.
A little summary: I planned to make at least half of the challenges when I started to join. The last project I finished was my #10-ballerina-outfit, my fifth finished project, so I was right on track. Now we are already close to challenge #18 and I my counter is still at five projects. I need to do all coming challenges but one to eventually reach my goal of at least 12 completed challenges, puh…
In fact I did try to make something for #13 “Under 10$” but it became evident in a very early state that it was completely unwearable and so it never made it to the finish line.

Challenge #17 was “Yellow” and I am a few days late, I know, but please, I am so proud having at least finished it, so don’t let it rain on my parade, would you 😉

Now you have to know, yellow really isn’t a colour I like. I own very few yellow garments, somehow they never appealed me. Additionally, my boyfriend works at an international furniture-selling enterprise using the blue and yellow colours of the swedish flag as their trademark, so naturally he doesn’t fancy yellow after closing time.

Therefore the title. I am not sure if I would have made that project without the challenge, this applies as well to the aforementioned ballet-costume and the 19th-century-fabric-box, this explains the “part 3” 😀

The search for some yelllow fabric in my stash wasn’t very fruitful. I found a small piece of mustard-coloured cotton-velvet (too small to make a garment of it), an equally small amount of white cotton printed with yellow flowers and two metres of a light yellow polyester fabric I bought on sale when one of my favourite fabric shops closed. Don’t ask me why, normally I tend to ignore artificial fibres and yellow coloured fabrics.

The fabric has a little stretch and is quite solid so I thought it could become a nice dress for  the approaching autumn days.I picked a dress from the march 1940 issue of “Beyers Mode für Alle”, one of the magazines I bought in Gotha last year.

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The pattern itself came together quite quickly. A 88cm bust tends always to be a little on the large side for me, but the waist was fine and so I changed nothing and started cutting (as you see, the bust is ruffled, no use measuring this, if you ask me). I skipped the pockets because I couldn’t see the use of two very narrow pockets getting bulky right between my legs, there are few easier ways to ruin a dress.

Drawing of the pattern pieces. I used the upper, long sleeve
Drawing of the pattern pieces. I used the upper, long sleeve

Only during my sewing some problems began to show up. First, the construction of the shoulders hadn’t been thought through. The shoulder seams lie behind the highest point of the shoulders. That itself is not a problem, but the front part was ruffled and so the sleeve tended to fall off the shoulder in the front. In total the shoulders were slightly on the large side. So what I did was I attached a wide grosgrain ribbon to the shoulder seam, the ends connected to the sleeve cap and the collar. The ribbon itself was 2cm shorter than the non ruffled back, so I gathered the back part a little at the same time, making the shoulders fit better (besides the size being on the upper end of what fits me, the stretch of the fabric and its weight added to this dropping effect. So the ribbon prevents the fabric to stretch as well).

left: the dropping sleeve, middle: the improved version, right: a look at the ribbon
left: the dropping sleeve, middle: the improved version, right: a look at the ribbon

The centre front is far far away from the front edges. This makes the right front edge disappear below the collar and, if you don’t want your buttons to be far away from the edge, it places the buttons off-centre unless they are gigantic. Unfortunately I realized it too late, after I had already finished the two front edges. To solve this I attached the buttons and press fasteners on the right front edge, but only the lowest two counter parts of the press fasteners I sewed as far from the centre as the pattern had wanted them to be. The topmost one I placed as far away from the left edge as the button was from the right one (what means much closer to the edge), the two buttons in the middle I placed accordingly (additionally it looked so very severe with the collar’s edges touching).

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Third issue was the very blousy fit. I have no before-photo, but I removed a total 14cm underbust-circumference to make the dress fitting as it is now, before the whole bodice part fit very loosely. Another 6cm circumference was removed at bust-height and the upper sleeves.

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The sleeves are puffed and have a dart in the lower half. If I wear long sleeves I want them to be a little more on the long than on the short side. So I decided to keep the length, though it caused a few wrinkles when letting the arms drop. Because the dart was very narrow it was impossible to close it completely. I left the 7cm open and added buttons and press fasteners as well, not at the hem, but 3cm above. Like this the sleeve can slide down a tiny bit more and wrinkles less but is still as long as I like it to be.

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yes, a ding at the zipper, I see this. But because it will be worn when it is colder I hope enough underskirts will fix it. If not I can still change this.

A flaw you wouldn’t have noticed but I see at a first glance: the collar! Do you see that slightly darker colour? That’s because my interfacing is green. Wouldn’t have thought it could shine through, but obviously it does.

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The length is a little short for 1940, I know. But the dress is so high-necked and well behaved, I thought it needed this length to look less severe.

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The Challenge: #17 Yellow

Fabric: light yellow synthetic fabric

Pattern: magazineBeyers Mode für alle”, march 1940

Year: 1940

Notions: various cream and yellow threads (got rid of three different small spools^^); interfacing for the collar, grosgrain ribbon to stabilize the shoulder seams and a narrower one for the waist seam; seven burgundy buttons and different coloured press fasteners, short zipper for the side seam, fusible interfacing

How historically accurate is it? I fear the material of the fabric isn’t authentic, nor is the length of the dress and the interfacing. The pattern and the changes I made are accurate, the buttons and the zipper are old, though not that old, but both plausible for the time (plastic buttons and coloured metal zipper).

Hours to complete:  Maybe 6-8. Sewing itself went quite fast, but all those adjustments and the handsewing (zipper, buttons, hem, shoulder stabilization) took their time.

First worn:  for the photos today, still too warm outside to wear it all day long

Total cost: I know I bought the fabric not long ago, but I have no idea what I paid for it.I assume not more than 10CHF/m, otherwise it wouldn’t have been appealing to me. All notions enlisted came from my stash and were bought with haberdashery convolutes, so different to tell. Only the interfacing was bought new, I think I paid 2€/m.

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dress: Beyer/made by me – belt: mango – handbag: flea market – shoes: cube

Though I said yellow is not my favourite colour, I am really happy with the result and looking forward to wear it a lot as soon as it gets colder. 🙂

See you soon, love

ette

17 thoughts on “things I would never have done without Leimomi part 3

  1. Oh, du siehst so hübsch aus! Das Kleid ist wirklich toll, auch wenn du gelb eigentlich nicht so magst (und ich auch nicht soo) steht dir das hervorragend. Gerade in Kombination mit dem dunklen rot. Und ich find das Kleid echt schick 🙂

  2. Dankeschön! Im Endeffekt bin ich mit dem Kleid sehr zufrieden, trotz der ungewohnten Farbe. Vielleicht sollte ich das noch dazu schreiben, hast recht^^
    Ja, bei der Kombifarbe hab ich lang gegrübelt. Einfach passende oder goldene Knöpfe war mir zu platt, zudem musste ich auch schauen, was ich sonst so im Schrank hab. Daher waren schwarz (fiel dann raus wegen dem Bieneneffekt) und dunkelblau (fiel raus wegen Mangel an passenden Knöpfen) auch noch Optionen. Aber ich bin mit dem Rot sehr glücklich.

  3. Danke dir! Die Schuhe waren mit ein Kriterium für die Knopffarbe 🙂 (grün oder braun hätte vielleicht auch toll ausgesehen, aber da hätte ich keine passenden Schuhe gehabt^^)

  4. Oh my, that looks like a heap of work! I’m not sure 1940s silhouette is the one for me (broad-hipped girl here) but I envy the elegance. You look stunning and I think the colour looks really nice with your dark hair and red lips.

    Wonderful job with sewing and sizing down, I know how hard that is!

  5. Steht dir wirklich hervorragend, auch wenn ich wie du bei gelb eher skeptisch bin! Und ich freue mich, dass ich nicht die einzige bin, die sich bei historischen Schnittmustern einen WOlf ändert. Nie passt irgendetwas auf Anhieb! *seufz*

  6. Das Kleid ist einfach wahnsinnig schön und steht dir super. Da kriege ich doch wieder die Näh-Sehnsucht (obwohl ich sowas nie hinkriegen würde…) LG mila

  7. Thank you very much, yes it was quite a project, but it was worth it, I even think it could become one of my favourite pieces to wear this winter.
    And why don’t you just try a 40ies pattern you like? You are absolutely right that the style should fit your body. But I always loved the 30ies style and never tried it because I thought mid-calf length would make me appear even shorter than I already am. Then I made one dress and I love it. So maybe it could as well be a new discovery?

  8. Ja, da merkt man dann eben, wie anders die Geschmäcker waren. Ans Kürzen hab ich mich ja gewöhnt, aber diese 14cm Unterbrustweite war weit mehr als eine Größe, das Oberteil sollte wohl einfach viel blusiger sitzen. Aber so sah es dann einfach nach Oma aus. Der Schnitt brauchte da wirklich ein Facelift.
    Dazu hab ich vor kurzem irgendwo gelesen, dass historische Schnitte nicht so angepasst waren wie heute, da sehr viele Frauen mit dem Schnitt zum Schneider gingen und es anpassen ließen. Daher erwartete niemand, dass so ein Kleid vom Papier weg saß. Aber es ist für uns heute eben sehr mühsam 😉

  9. Dankeschön (und willkommen 🙂 ). Und natürlich kriegst du das hin. Anfangen, sich (erreichbare) Ziele setzen, one step at a time. Ich habe nie viel davon gehalten, Kissenhüllen zu fertigen um Nähen zu lernen. Eines meiner ersten großen Projekte mit Schnittmuster war ein Wintermantel mit Futter und Revers (aus einer Burda), einer meiner ersten historischen Schnitte war der graue Wintermantel. Der wäre fast untragbar geworden, ist dafür jetzt umso schöner. Und wenn er gescheitert wäre, hätte ich zumindest viel gelernt (hab ich auch so, zB dasss 88cm Schnitte für mich etwas zu groß sind, um beim aktuellen Projekt zu bleiben 😉 )
    Du hast so viele schöne Schnittmuster, alleine die Colette-Schnitte die ich da auf dem einen Foto erspäht habe sind doch viel zu schade zum horten (sagt die, die stapelweise Burdas verstauben lässt^^).
    Es ist Herbst, ein Tässchen Tee, eine Duftkerze und los geht’s 😀

  10. Wunderschön! Die Farbkombination allein ist so toll, das muss ich mir mal merken. Über deine Bemerkung mit den Taschen musste ich sehr lachen, wirklich ein komisches Design, gut dass Du das ausgelassen hast 🙂 Liebe Grüße!

  11. Danke dir! Ja, besonders auf dem Schnittschema sieht man, dass es nur merkwürdig aussehen kann. Und da keine Abnäher in den Schlitzen versteckt waren, konnte man sie einfach weglassen.
    Und die Farbkombi hat mich auch überrascht, aber gut, da ich mich gelb nie wirklich gewidmet habe, kein Wunder dass sie mir noch nicht über den Weg gelaufen ist.
    Liebe Grüße, ette

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